Among all the callers who have tried to win 105.3 The Shark’s call-in radio contests, Brienne Allan may have been the most persistent. It helped pass the time on her commute to Notch Brewing in Salem, Massachusetts where she up until recently worked as Production Manager. Perhaps more importantly, she also figured winning the jackpot would alleviate the cost of her 90-minute commute from Maine.

Even with 9,000 breweries operating in the United States, job openings for brewers are few. As a result, many brewers like Allan endure an onerous commute with hidden costs of time and money, chipping away at the industry’s already modest salaries.

While it’s easy to overlook staff lives outside of work, it’s in an employer’s best interests to consider how the job impacts people when they’re off the clock. This includes commutes, the activity employees do right before they get to work. There is no one-size-fits all solution, but tools are available to avoid or mitigate the negative impacts that arise from commuting. Communication is the key element to successful initiatives.

Getting on the Road

Allan, who brought forth the #MeToo reckoning in the beer world earlier this year, made the unfortunate decision to purchase a Fiat several years back. When she bought the car, she was living in Boston and had a short commute to her old job. It was practical then, especially for parking. Shortly after that, she began working at Notch. While they appear close on the map, the commute from Boston to Salem can be challenging. She then moved to Worcester for a while, which was an hour and change.

Brienne Allan, brewer, previously with Notch Brewing in Salem, MA.

It’s not an ideal vehicle for a long commute in New England. Since she’s owned it, she’s had to constantly replace the pricey tires, spending thousands of dollars in addition to gas, tolls and other maintenance.

When Allan and her fiancé discussed where to buy a home, they settled on the Portland area. It’s about two hours from Salem, one way, depending on traffic. Though there are some breweries in the region where she likely could have found a job, it would’ve been hard for her to walk away from Notch. She connected in many ways with the brewery’s operation, culture, and focus on traditional lagers. It’s incredibly difficult to leave that environment, especially after seeing the voluminous stories of sexism, harassment and assault in the industry that were revealed after she ignited the reckoning.

Short- and Long-Term Living at/near work

Allan’s fiancé was understanding of the challenges she faced due to her commute. With over sixteen years in the business, Mike Fava knows the industry well. He was most recently the head brewer at Oxbow Brewing in Maine, where he worked for nine years.

Oxbow’s original location in Newcastle is remote, and the brewery offers its guest house for staff if they need a place to sleep. It has turned out to be very helpful as employees often live a notable distance away in more populated areas.

On occasion, Fava took advantage of this accommodation. Looking back on his old commute from Portland, he says “it is a beautiful drive. It’s coastal Maine, but doing it five days a week is tough. Instead of spending all that time in the car, I’d rather work a little longer, crash overnight, wake up the next day and get the work done.”

Mike Fava, brewer, previously with Oxbow Brewing Co. in Newcastle, ME.

Providing lodging, short- or long-term, can be mutually beneficial. There are financial benefits for employees by cutting commuting costs. Eliminating trips also results in a smaller carbon footprint. It can create greater reliability and consistency with efficiencies in personal lives and brewery operations. It can also help foster team building.

It can have its downsides on a long-term basis though. Barry Labendz, co-founder and general manager of Kent Falls Brewing in Connecticut, lived at his brewery for several years. He found being on-site meant it was much easier to get sucked into work during his off-hours.  Allan had a similar experience when at one time she lived across the street from Notch. “I ended up being there 24/7, and that’s not healthy,” she says.

These situations may be employer/management derived (e.g a late-night call asking a brewer to run into the brewhouse to make sure a valve is shut.) However, sometimes working unpaid, unscheduled hours just happens. For Allan, she would pop in for a quick temperature check, and then suddenly several hours had passed. Reflecting on his days off when he lived at his brewery, Labendz recalls periodically seeing employees being swamped. It was difficult to just sit nearby relaxing knowing he could pitch in. So he did.

He now drives an hour to get to the brewery, and says “frankly, I love it…It gives me an hour to think about work early in the morning going in, and an hour to kind of think out of work while I’m leaving.” He uses the time to listen to podcasts and catch up with family and friends, which seems harder at other times of the day.

Barry Labendz, co-founder and general manager of Kent Falls Brewing, Kent, CT.

Even though Labendz enjoys his daily trip, he recognizes that he is an owner and has a different stake in the business. The fact that the brewery’s isolated location and corresponding commute can be taxing for his staff is not lost on him. Conversations with staff and cognizance of their commutes have informed the way they operate their brewery.   

Flexible Work Schedules

Kent Falls has essentially eliminated double brew days. Staff and management agree that sending workers home with a substantial drive through rural Connecticut is not ideal after a long day of work. This flexibility is important. Instead squeezing as much out of employees as they can, the brewery follows a more considerate path.

When Oxbow opened up a second facility in Portland, where Fava lived, his commuting experience improved as he was able to spend more workdays closer to home. However, the well-being of the brewery’s staff without this luxury remained on his mind, knowing how extended periods on the road mean less downtime in their lives. Less time with family and friends.

Under his management, production staff at the brewery decided together to make the workweek four ten-hour days (aka, a 4/10). Fava and others interviewed here, as well as research and trials in the public and private sectors, note the benefits of a 4/10 work week, which includes greater productivity and employee satisfaction. It results in less commute time overall each week. It also reduces financial burdens due to gas and wear and tear on a car.   

At Industrial Arts Brewing Company, Head Brewer Jess Reaves has discussed the idea of a 4/10 week with his staff. He sees the benefits and is on board if the employees choose it, but he notes “I'm also looking at other perspectives regarding the functionality of the brewery (are people as effective, work-wise, from hours 8-10?) and safety of the team (will people get tired and make mistakes, which can easily result in injury or loss of product).”

He adds, “safety, for me, is the biggest take-away. Ensuring that folks can get to work safely, be alert and present while there, then get home at a decent time (again, safely) is paramount. Even if an employee is enthusiastic about the job and committed to making the commute work, a tired employee is not safe. Between pumps, chemicals, heat, pressure, wet floors, and machinery...” Yeah, it’s a lot to be concerned about.

Jess Reaves, Head Brewer at Industrial Arts Brewing Company, Garnerville, NY.

Some breweries will find that not all staff want to work longer days. Further, a 4/10 may cause tension if there are certain segments of an organization that cannot have flexibility. Communication is critical. 

Industrial Arts starts the conversation before an employee begins working for the brewery. Commutes come up during the interview process, particularly when an applicant lives a substantial distance from the facility. Reaves says “just because an applicant is driven and wants the job, that doesn’t mean a long commute will be sustainable in the long run.” The dialogue helps keep everyone on the same page from day one.

Dreux Dillingham at Métier Brewing in Woodinville, Washington has similar conversations with his staff. He has found that allowing different shift leads results in staff arriving in a better frame of mind. Better prepared for the day’s work because they were able to more efficiently commute at off-peak times. 

Métier Brewing’s General Manager and Production Manager Dreux Dillingham with CEO Rodney Hines.

Dillingham is the General Manager, Production Manager and partner at the brewery and certainly does not have a traditional commute. After several years and several moves, progressively getting further from the metropolitan Seattle area (where Métier is located) to find a good quality of life at an affordable price, he now lives 120 miles from the brewery in Grays Harbor County. To accommodate the distance, his role within the organization had to change. He now performs several of his duties remotely, commuting just a few days a week.

On the days he does commute, Dillingham will often listen to music. Occasionally he’ll call into a meeting. Sometimes, though, he simply tries to enjoy the silence.

Opening new facilities/changing place of employment

As he’s no stranger to a tough commute, and understanding of its detriments, Dillingham has been discussing the opening of a second facility with his staff since early on in the process to determine how to make it work. Employers must be clear upfront about where a job will be located, and understanding that employees often consider that information when seeking a job. Conversations with staff are important if a new facility’s location will impact them, especially if there’s the possibility for a longer commute.

Métier recently announced its newest facility will be in partnership with the Seattle Mariners. It’s named “Steelhead’s Alley” in honor of the 1946 Negro league baseball team the Seattle Steelheads. The facility will be a brewery, taproom and event space. And they’re not stopping there. The brewery is currently looking for another production facility location in Seattle.

Back in the northeast, while Allan was aware early on of Notch’s plans to expand, and understanding of why it ultimately landed in Boston, it was a big concern for her. It added forty-five minutes to her commute, ironically, back to the city where she lived when she bought her Fiat. On top of the longer distance, the new facility is only brewing Czech lager, and as she says “a Czech lager day can be anywhere from ten hours to sixteen hours depending on how many decoctions it is.” Notch founder and Head Brewer Chris Lohring recognizes this, saying “yeah, if you’re brewing Czech lager, you want to live close.”

The reality is few have the luxury of an ideal commute and an ideal job. Accordingly, employers and employees should work together to make the situation the best it can be. This is what Lohring and his staff have done at Notch. With two facilities now, he’s happy to assign staff where it’s convenient for them, to the extent possible. Lohring also provides flexibility by letting the production team set its schedule, which can allow for commutes at off-peak times.

Recognizing the burdens of the additional commute, Lohring makes efforts to help alleviate the impact. Speaking of brew days at the new facility in Boston, while she didn’t love the commute, Allan says “when you’re there, it’s so wonderful getting to share the experience and the knowledge with the other brewers, and just hanging out. Everyone gets lunch, everyone gets dinner, everyone gets a hotel room. He’s (Lohring) very accommodating to people’s time in that way.”

Commutes and Wellness

Breweries that genuinely care about their staff should consider the mental and physical health issues that a commute can cause. Exhaustion, stress, anxiety et. al. can all result. Aside from the personal toll this takes on an individual, it can lead to unproductive and dangerous work environments.

Communication, flexibility in work schedules and fostering wellness at and outside of work are some tools to mitigate these impacts. Often, changes can be made that meet staff needs and still allow the brewery to hit production targets.  Without making use of initiatives like these, breweries are more prone to staff burnout and turnover as suggested by several interviewed here.  

Fava says that after Oxbow implemented the 4/10 workweek, he noticed much more watercooler discussions by staff about the activities they do outside of work. Their personal lives seemed to improve, and it accordingly improved their well-being on the job. It became clear that having conversations with staff to understand their concerns and preferences on issues like this was so important to keeping them happy, and as a result, making them better employees.

Bolstering the quality of employee’s time off the clock, Oxbow got lower premiums for their insurance by offering staff a stipend if used for healthcare-related activities (e.g. gym memberships, ski passes, yoga classes). Financially, it’s nearly a wash for the brewery, but the benefits can be tremendous. Implementing a measure like this may require a little bit more effort on the admin side for a brewery, but again, those that truly care about their employees, and want to retain them, should be willing to do it.

Breweries that can provide lodging at or near a brewery need to be cognizant of the potential adverse impacts of those arrangements. First, parameters must be set to avoid inappropriate behavior. It must be clear what is and what is not acceptable. Having these identified can help everyone feel safe and welcome, and help if an employee needs to be terminated.

Beyond that, some of the issues that may arise will seem very familiar to those that have been thrust into a home/work environment since the onset of Covid-19. If the situation is not properly managed, with work and home life separated, it can be unhealthy.

Staff work hours should always be respected by management. Of course, an emergency can be an exception, but owners should otherwise not allow staff to pitch in during their off time. Further, brewery operations and staff housing should be physically separated as much as possible. People simply need quality downtime from work. Away from work.

Having experienced it himself, Labendz sees the challenges. He now finds that distancing himself from his brewery has several benefits. It allows him to be much more “present” when he’s at work, and when he’s home. He now lives with his significant other, and says “I’m not totally surprised that removing myself from living at the center of my work allowed me to be a better partner.”

Communication, Understanding and Leadership

Further acknowledging Lohring’s efforts to address burdens on his staff at Notch, Allan says “he’s very present in the struggle. He understands.” It’s not surprising as there can be a built-in appreciation of the challenges by ownership when they’re brewers too. As Lohring points out, non-brewer owned breweries have a “different mentality.”

This can show when discussing shift times and providing flexibility. Some operations may be less inclined to consider staff input. Fava says “I think those are some decisions that are certainly financially driven and growth-driven and come with the territory. I think there is a choice there.” 

This doesn’t mean all non-brewer owned companies are unwilling to listen and learn from their staff. Communication and education with management/ownership and staff should be a two-way street. That’s quite important for owners to recognize. As Allan says “we need leadership at breweries that make these rules and implement these policies on behalf of other people’s well-being, because if a company doesn’t know that they should be doing it, then they won’t.”

Career Building

As commutes come with costs and people often choose where they live based on housing prices, staff wages need to be part of these industry-wide conversations, particularly as employees gain experience and provide greater value to an organization.

It’s not uncommon for breweries to be located in unaffordable areas. Young brewers willing to live in less than ideal housing situations can often make it work early in their career to be close to work. Those getting older, and looking to settle down, will likely look for other arrangements. Without a significant salary increase, this means a need to either move further away from the expensive neighborhoods or find another career altogether.

Dillingham thinks a reassessment of how brewers are valued is needed. He notes, “we’ve come too far as an industry now over the last twenty or thirty years to say anymore that we’re just a motley crew of hourly workers and misfits…these are skilled professionals and people have to be seen and compensated that way.” To him, it’s worth it to pay people better, instead of treating them as disposable and just bringing on another young person. By doing so, brewers will be able to create a sustainable career, provide for their family, should they chose to have one, and create a better quality of life.

Almost Home

Fava recently left his job at Oxbow (at the time we initially spoke, he was still an employee and spoke freely). Since he was able to work a fair amount where he lived in Portland, his commute wasn’t necessarily a factor in his decision to leave. It was simply time for a change.  

These days, his average commute time is fourteen minutes by bike to Novare Res, the well-known beer bar in Portland, where he’s the general manager. He used to play rolodex roulette on his long rides, where he often was able to catch up with old friends. The downside of his new commute is not being able to talk to these folks as much anymore.

Not surprisingly, the commute from Maine proved to be too much for Allan. Her last day of full-time employment was September 1st. Lohring was shocked she lasted as long as she did after her move. “The day she told me she was moving to Portland, I knew her time was coming to an end. A four-hour commute is not sustainable”, he said.

Her role in the #MeToo movement has ignited a passion that she is supporting by going back to college to study human resources. She now speaks to people regularly on issues related to diversity, equity and inclusion, and will continue advocating for brewers and others in the industry. This includes participation in the Brave Noise initiative, the #NotMe platform, and Women of the Bevolution.

Home

The thousands of breweries that have opened in the last decade or so need to mature to sustainably grow. It has become incredibly clear that these businesses need to step up their human resource efforts. Yet, it’s not just the smaller operations that struggle with these issues. Numerous examples have been revealed just in the recent months where large breweries have failed their staff in this regard (e.g. Mikkeller, BrewDog, and Goose Island.)

Breweries of all sizes need to comprehensively and equitably think about their employee’s well-being on and off the clock. Staff commutes are one component of this. The tools are available to make a difference. It’s up to each brewery to decide whether to use them.

(Note: photos included in this post were provided by those photographed.)

A pint of cask Bitter in a nonic is the first thing that pops up in my head when I think of British beer. Yet this image doesn’t align with their beer culture these days as neither the beer style nor glass are particularly popular. While it might be easy to lament their decline, especially for Bitter, the British beer scene is incredibly vibrant right now. This will be explored in detail in Matthew Curtis’ forthcoming book, Modern British Beer.

Modern British Beer book cover. Image source: CAMRA.

A recently announced promotion for the book caught my attention due to the glass it included. It’s essentially a stemmed Pilsner glass. According to the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA), publishers of the book, “it is a glass that’s accessible for a wide range of beer drinkers.”

A tasting glass sold with a special offer from CAMRA for the book. Image source: CAMRA.

CAMRA has made great progress lately in promoting tradition while recognizing the need to incorporate contemporary trends. It’s the organization’s traditional component that had me assume they advocate for the use of dimple mugs and nonics, perhaps even the tulip glass often associated with Guinness. These are the glasses that Cicerone identifies in its glassware guide as British and Irish glassware styles. However, they are not commonplace in contemporary use, and neither are the styles of beer traditionally associated with those glasses (with the exception of the beers from Guinness).

From Cicerone’s Guide to Beer Glassware. The depiction is not quite consistent with modern British beer drinking culture.

Some changes were taking place in the pre-modern British beer era that impacted the glassware styles that were/are used. Before the craft beer revolution took hold of England, the growth of lager sales had been the most notable change to the domestic beer culture. This is now the overwhelming majority of beer consumed in the country. It’s growth brought different drinking vessels. Around the same time (and perhaps because of this, at least in part), glassware manufacturers in the country known for making some of the iconic domestic beer glass styles were closing down.

Since its inception, part of CAMRA’s mission has been to promote the proper serving of real ale. To them, a specific glass style isn’t crucial to enjoying a good pint. Accordingly, the organization generally doesn’t advocate for a particular shape.

CAMRA celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. In honor of the occasion, it released a commemorative glass. Its shape is the one that’s most common these days. The straight glass (aka straight-sided, conical, or shaker pint) is ubiquitous in the United Kingdom. Despite the negative connotation it has here in the US craft beer scene, it’s generally embraced in the UK.

CAMRA’s 50th Anniversary souvenir glass. Image source: CAMRA.

The straight glass is not new to UK beer drinkers. Beer writer Martyn Cornell identifies its use going back at least as far as the 1920s and 30s when it was referred to as a tumbler. Countless breweries have used it over the years, including Adnams, Batemans, Black Sheep, Fuller’s and Marston’s. A wealth of younger ones like Southwark, Verdant and Deya use them as well. However, this younger generation of breweries will often have more elegant glassware offerings as well.

Modern British glassware offerings from Southwark, Verdant and Deya. Image sources from the preceding links.

Given its ubiquity and general embrace, it’s not surprising then that the glass image on the cover of Curtis’ book is the straight glass. It’s the “great leveler”, according to him. Versatile and inclusive. CAMRA’s Alex Metcalfe notes a similar sentiment, stating “the cover is an homage to the diversity and inclusion in the modern British beer scene.” As far as the book’s contents, he notes “for the most part, the container is not the central issue for us. Sensory experience, good company and exploring modern British beer culture are all at the core of Modern British Beer.”

Curtis explains it’s important to keep beer accessible and to suggest a particular glass must be used for a certain beer, potentially forcing consumers to spend more to enjoy it, can contribute to gatekeeping. While consumers don’t need to use a straight glass to feel that they’re egalitarian, those that do not have a selection of Teku’s to enjoy their hazy IPA should not be disenfranchised either.

To CAMRA, the straight glass imagery on the cover is important, as Metcalfe puts it, because it “is a kind of universal emblem that’s recognisable from many beer drinking contexts, locations, and cultures. Considering the transatlantic exchange of influences within beer culture and brewing over the last 50 years it is particularly relevant to the themes explored within Modern British Beer.” He adds “it is a definitive move away from the tankard in that the associations with a tankard are perhaps heavily weighted - this is a light touch approach from us, indicative of a wider feeling that it really it is up to the reader to choose their glassware.”

Sheffield brewery Saint Mars of the Desert is a wonderful representation of the modern British beer scene. The primary vessel they use to serve their beer is a stemmed tulip-like glass. They also use a Willi Becher and a dimple mug. This is a fitting, well-rounded selection. That said, brewer and owner Dann Paquette says that if he goes out to a pub and orders a pint of Bitter, he’s “hoping for the nonic glass or the old man dimple mug.”

Saint Mars of the Desert’s glassware selection strikes a perfect balance to serve patrons their varying styles of beer. Image source: Saint Mars of the Desert.

For Five Points Brewing Company in London, glassware is an “advertiser and an amplifier”, as Ed Davy from the brewery notes. It’s no secret that glassware offers a wonderful opportunity to advertise a brand. He elaborates, “in its simplest form, this just puts a logo in the customer’s hand; at its most advanced, I’ve seen breweries put QR codes on their glasses that link to tasting notes, promotional giveaways or an info-page about the brewery. Branded glassware is one of the most immediate and direct ways of establishing a relationship with the customer and informing them about the beer they’re drinking.”

Regarding amplification, Davy says “well-designed glass can improve the drinking experience by intensifying existing elements of the drink.” While different styles of glassware can amplify in different ways, he adds “you can create feelings of nostalgia by serving cask ale in ‘traditional’ dimpled jugs”, and this is something the brewery does at its taproom for its cask beer. To be most efficient with space at their pub, The Pembury Tavern, the straight glass is used. For kegged beer, they use a Willi Becher.

London’s Five Points Brewing Company is known for being a contemporary brewery keeping many of the traditional British beer styles alive. This doesn’t prevent them from making use of a variety of glassware styles. Image sources: Five Points Brewing Company.

Metcalfe mentions he understands that for some, the dimple mug is “prime Instagram fodder”. He suspects this may be because “it’s mostly the exception to the rule and now a nostalgic novelty.” That said, anyone paying attention to Five Points’ social media accounts will likely attest to how the brewery has been able to successfully leverage this nostalgia with the mug.

A tulip glass would be ideal for Davy in an everyday pub, but he’s not too picky, as long as it’s clean. However, things are different in his local pub. “All that goes out the window. I don’t care about the glass style, I don’t even want glass - I want my pewter tankard, which lives behind the bar.” Talk about nostalgia.

Curtis is a bit like me when it comes to glassware. Ambivalent about what others do, but a little picky with personal consumption. Also like me, he gravitates toward the Willi Becher.

Despite romantic notions of older glassware styles that people like myself may have, British beer drinkers have moved on to other vessels. And that’s probably a good thing. If I’m being honest, glasses like the nonic and dimple aren’t great. The craft beer scene in England is thriving and dynamic, and the glassware that’s accompanying it has changed for the better.

CAMRA will be launching a new online beer style resource soon. Examples were photographed by Nicci Peet in a mix of contemporary and traditional glassware. Keep an eye out for that, as well as Curtis’ book, which is being released on August 12th. Those in the United States can order the book through Waterstones. It’s highly recommended. I will be doing a write-up on it for PorchDrinking.com.

Note: for further reading on the history of beer drinkware in England, I suggest the above referred to Zythophile blog post ‘More notes towards a history of the beer mug’ and the book Pub Beer Mugs and Glasses by Hugh Rock. Also, if you’re interested in the history of the nonic, a glass with US origins, see a prior post here.

The once dead beer style Grodziskie is making the faintest effort to crawl out of its Polish grave. It’s surprising it hasn’t been all the rage with craft brewers since its cousin, Berliner Weisse, or what people call Berliner Weisse, is practically a staple in taprooms across the globe.  

As Lew Bryson recently pointed out on The Full Pint, so many people have a “fetish” for bacon, yet they choose sour over smoke in their beer. I don’t get it, but I’m not here to discuss that. This post brings us back to glassware. If you want to know more about the Grodziskie beer style, read this article by Stan Hieronymus in Craft Beer & Brewing Magazine.

There’s not much readily accessible documentation on what precise vessel or vessels were used for this beer before the proliferation of glass in the late 1800s, though the style was in existence as far back as the 14th century. When glassware exploded in popularity, Grodziskie production was at its peak and was exported around the world. It’s no surprise that there were a wealth of glassware options specifically marketed for Grodziskie. The style went into sharp decline in the second half of the 20th century.  

In its heyday, some compared Grodziskie to Champagne, perhaps in an attempt to elevate its status. It did have a somewhat similar profile relating to color, clarity, and effervescence. Grodziskie was referred to as the “Champagne of Poland”, and the glasses that became associated with it in many ways resembled Champagne glasses of that era. They’re also quite similar to certain Pilsner glass styles. The similarity between these was so great that they were commonly listed next to each other in catalogs.

Early 20th century glassware catalogs depicting similar glasses for Champagne and beer. Source: https://www.glas-musterbuch.de/

Berliner Weisse, known as the “Champagne of the North”, went a different route in the early 1900s with its goblet style glass (see below), not unlike the Coupe style glass for Champagne. It has made its way into better-suited forms.  

While the Pilsner glass has had a variety of permutations, the Grodziskie glass is always shown in a conical form. Some are wider than others. They vary from trumpet-shaped to straight-sided. Catalogs from the early 1900s show availability in various sizes, but historic marketing materials and actual examples still in existence, depict a glass larger than the typical Pilsner glass.

On the left, a catalog depiction of a Berliner Weisse glass (Weissbierschale, or white beer bowl) and a Grätzer glass. Grätzer is the German word for Grodziskie. On the right, another catalog example with a variety of glasses, including Pilsner and Grätzer, all having a nearly identical form. Source: https://www.glas-musterbuch.de/

A collection of Grodziskie glasses in Poland. Photo courtesy of Chip McElroy of Live Oak Brewing Company.

Historic Grodziskie advertisements. Source: http://browargrodzisk.com/en/historia/

The Pilsner glass is rarely larger than 0.4L. It’s usually smaller. Grodziskie glasses are commonly 0.4-0.5L. The marketing materials seem to exaggerate the size of the glass. But as seen in this picture of Chip McElroy from Live Oak Brewing Company holding a Grodziskie from Browar Grodzisk, the depiction is accurate. It’s due in part to this type of Grodziskie glass being very narrow toward the base. It’s an attribute that makes the glass a little difficult to clean.

Chip McElroy, owner of Live Oak Brewing Company, enjoying a Grodziskie in Poland in a proper glass. Photo courtesy of Chip McElroy.

Some historic examples include a groove feature at the bottom of the glass, which was common in glassware in the early 1900s. These are referred to in the German catalogs as “Rippen-Schliff” and “Pflaumecken”, which Google translates to “rib-cut” and “plum wedges” respectively. This is not common for modern examples of Grodziskie glasses, or Pilsner glasses, but a similar feature is still found with Geueze glasses. In the case of the latter, the feature is referred to as “ribbelke”, Dutch for ribbed. This design element helps reduce the amount of contact a hand has on a glass, thereby reducing heating of the liquid.

The tall, slender glass elegantly presents the pale beer. Its triangular shape provides support for the robust foam cap. As Jenny Pfäfflin at Dovetail Brewery notes “I suspect because of the elevated carbonation of Grodziskie, this is why Grodzisk brewers chose this style of glass—to showcase its bubbles and also its large, fluffy head, which enhances its smoky aroma.”

Dovetail sells a glass to accompany their Grodziskie. They use the 14-ounce (414 mL) Classic Footed Pilsner Glass by Arc Cardinal. The glass is quite similar to (identical?) the straight-sided version of the Grodziskie glass. You’d be hard pressed to find a manufacturer selling a glass advertised for Grodziskie. Correspondence from Browar Grodzisk indicates the Polish glassware company Krosno produced a Grodziskie glass. It may be a specialty, or no longer in production as there is no glass identified on their website.

Dovetail Brewery’s thirst quenching Grodziskie, served in their version of a Grodziskie glass.

Around the Dovetail Brewery, Jenny jokes that they like to yell “PIWO GRODZIKIE”, and this is reflected in the bold lettering of their glass. Everyone should shout it out loud because there are not enough people that have heard about, or appreciate this beer style.

PS - If you’re looking for an authentic Grodziskie glass, it might be hard to come by (some pop up from time to time in Poland. Google ‘Grodziskie szkło’.) Of course, you can use whatever glass works for you when drinking this beer style (but really, you should just use a Willy Becher.)

Radeberger’s recent canned release of their Pilsner Zwickelbier has a notable element on its packaging. The word “hazy”, which is almost exclusively applied to New England IPA, is prominently depicted. While that’s a little cringe-worthy, something like this was probably inevitable. People have been making similar references for a few years now. It’s also unlikely to resonate with the intended audience.

The press release seems to make clear that this is an attempt to connect with modern, young consumers. It even claims the beer is “deliciously juicy” (spoiler: it’s delicious, not juicy). It offers a sheepish recognition that the Reinheitsgebot doesn’t allow Oreos in a beer. But fear not lactose lovers, “despite these ingredient limitations, Germany is known for its exceptional beers and innovative taste profiles.” They should have just omitted any reference to the purity law.

Radeberger has been making one beer for a long time, and that’s staying the same. This beer is simply an unfiltered version of their classic Pilsner. It was previously available at the brewery only and on a few select occasions elsewhere.

It’s a Zwickelbier, and that term is often affiliated with Franconian beer culture (Radeberger is located in Bavaria’s neighboring state Saxony). Similar terms include Kellerbier and, to a lesser extent, Landbier, and I wrote a little bit about these in a recent beer showcase on PorchDrinking.com.

Zwickel, sometimes Zwickl, refers to a spout on a lagering tank that brewers draw beer from to sample before filtration. Accordingly, the beer may not be as bright as the brewer intends the finished product to be. That doesn’t mean it won’t be tasty.

Hazy and juicy are the nomenclature of a different beer culture from the typical Radeberger customer. Its use may make a few highly uninformed consumers pick up a can or two. However, while using the hip terminology, they will likely fail to connect to those that are attracted to these terms. There a several reasons for this, including the fact that it’s German, it’s lager, it’s not a sticker can and its price point is not aligned with what the hazy crowd is accustomed to. All of these points will send signals to trend-following consumers that this beer is not for them. They speak to me though; an anomaly in the craft beer market.

It’s a somewhat sad occasion as this is, as they say, their “first product innovation in nearly 150 years.” And it’s a great one. As I mentioned, the beer is delicious. Good for them for releasing this. It’s just that the packing and marketing are unfortunate, and I suspect will not achieve the goals they have in mind. I would’ve found this much more appealing if they demonstrated a bit of humor and used “HÄZY” instead. Maybe they thought it was humorous without the umlaut. German humor is often lost on us Americans. #LageristLeben

One of the last farms from New York State’s hop growing heyday was located just a few miles down the valley from where this photo was taken. The Pindar farm in Middleburgh stopped growing hops in the early 1950s. It was an anomaly since it started well after the Central New York region exploded with hop farms, and lasted decades longer than many others. Most were wiped out in the early 1900s by an unstable market, two forms of mildew, hop aphids and Prohibition.

Some New York State Hop Growing History

In the mid to late 1800s, New York became the top place in the United States for hop production. In particular, this happened in a region extending just west of Albany to just east of Syracuse. This area ran in a band about 20-30 miles north and south of Route 20. Cluster and Fuggle hops were common (the latter to a lesser extent). The region was so successful that it caught the eye of Adolphus Busch, who acquired a hop farm outside of Cooperstown.

New York State’s historic hop growing epicenter in the mid 1800s to early 1900s.

The area was also rapidly transforming as the Erie Canal had just been completed a few decades earlier, catapulting New York City to global city status. Like so many other industries, the hop business was able to flourish due to the access to this superhighway.

Though the industry was largely decimated in these parts for the aforementioned reasons, there were a few that held on. They experimented with ways to fight the mildews (Downy and Powdery) and pests. They also sought other markets for their hops, like homebrewers during Prohibition, although it was not permitted under the Volstead Act. Later, during WWII, they found European breweries grappling with the ramifications of war as a potential market. They began growing hop roots from the West Coast and even from Germany.

Newspaper clippings alluding to a lucrative hop industry in New York State, despite that fact that it had already suffered major setbacks. Source: https://sites.google.com/site/jesskidden/hops/new-york-state-hops-post-repeal

An even greater anomaly than the Pindar farm was Segal Ranch. Segal began growing hops further north near the Canadian border in 1941. However, the location was not immune from the problems that had hit Central New York, and after a particularly bad season in 1959, Segal closed up shop in New York and made Yakima Valley, Washington its new home. This was an easy move as the company had already established a presence there several years earlier.

Source: https://sites.google.com/site/jesskidden/hops/new-york-state-hops-post-repeal

Hop Growing in New York Today

In the last ten to fifteen years, many thought they could plant a few acres of hops and make a decent profit. Most quickly learned it’s not that easy. A key challenge is that suitable land is needed. While finding vacant land in Upstate New York is not a problem, finding vacant land that is good for hop growth is. The land needs to have good, well-drained soil, and good sunlight. This eliminates a sizeable amount of sites.

According to Steve Miller “the [hop] varieties that are susceptible to downy mildew, for example, you don’t want to plant in an area where you have high humidity in the summer and a lot of rainfall on a regular basis…and I think that’s something a lot of people didn’t seem to want to recognize when they were getting on the bandwagon for planting hops.” The now semi-retired Miller was a hops specialist with the Cornell Cooperative Extension of Madison County and most recently the Executive Director at Northeast Hop Alliance/Hop Growers of New York. He is keenly aware of the challenges hop growers face.

Existing orchards and vineyards are in a good position to grow hops because they have suitable land, may already have similar equipment needed, and also have a built-in seasonal workforce.

Brooklyn based Strong Rope Brewery only uses New York State ingredients.

Some hop growers have partnered with the New York Hop Guild. The guild is a grower-owned hop merchant that helps farmers sell their products. Breweries like Strong Rope in Brooklyn, and Subversive in Catskill purchase from the guild.

One of the growers that works with the guild is Pederson Farms in Seneca Castle. According to their website, they were the first of the new generation of hop growers to plant hops for commercial purposes back in 1999.

Hops from Hilltop Hops and Barley in Oneonta can only be purchased through the guild. On their 20-acre hop farm, they grow Fuggle, Newport, Nugget, Cascade and Willamette. They have an impressive operation, including their harvesting and processing equipment.

Cascade has proven to do fairly well in New York. Miller notes “it has pretty good disease resistance. It’s not as susceptible to downy mildew and powdery mildew as some of the other varieties.” They’re grown near the old Busch estate, along with Fuggle and Willamette, at the Farmer’s Museum in Cooperstown.

Newburgh Brewing Company uses some Northwest hops in their Cream Ale (as does Genesee Cream Ale). However, they also use Cascade hops from New York.

Newport grows well here, but many breweries aren’t purchasing it. Miller, again, says “it has good disease resistance. It actually has a good flavor profile…and it’s one of the varieties that would grow best in New York…” He suspects many brewers simply haven’t heard of it, or don’t know how to use it.

Alta Vista Farm Hops in Cherry Valley grows a selection of traditional hops. However, grower/owner Conrad Fink says that the wild, or heritage hops that they grow has caught the attention of several brewers. Fink is also a board member of the Hop Growers of New York. He adds, “from the start, I have propagated wild hops that I have found in different spots around Schoharie and Otsego counties. I now have four different wild hops, and they all have different aroma profiles. So, I grow and process them separately. Brewers really like the uniqueness of these wild hops.”

He calls one of these varieties “Pindar”. It was found along a hedgerow of the old Pindar farm, and he transplanted it to his property in 2017. According to their website, the hop’s aroma has the following qualities “pungent, very strong aroma of tobacco, sweet pine, and freshly mowed grass.”

Dr. Lynda McMaster-Schuyler, a professor at the State University of New York (SUNY) at Cobleskill, is studying feral hops. In addition to old farms, she notes some are also found along rail lines where hops likely fell out of railcars during transport many years ago. They are working on genetic identification, though this has been hampered by Covid. Most have shown some resistance to downy mildew.

The image on the left shows the Pindar brothers in 1939 (source: https://sites.google.com/site/jesskidden/hops/new-york-state-hops-post-repeal.) I suspect it was taken on their farm in Middleburgh in close proximity to where my family goes berry picking.

Green Wolf Brewing in Middleburgh is located on the other side of the river from the old Pindar farm and buys hops from Alta Vista.

The Future

There’s no chance this region will reclaim the status it once had in the US hop growing market. New York cannot compete with the farms in the west that are often several hundred acres in size. New York hop farms are generally about five to thirty acres. The largest is Chimney Bluffs Hoppery with 32-acres. Further, the drier climate in the west is not as disease prone. However, there is the opportunity for a small regional hop industry if brewers will support it.

That has been incredibly difficult since New England IPAs dominate the craft beer world, and many brewers only want certain types of hops to make that style. This is in spite of the fact that they can be made with other varieties. Many of the trendy hops brewers seek are tightly controlled by private entities. For a variety of reasons, they are not likely to be widely grown in New York anytime soon.

This Pilsner from Big aLICe Brewing uses NYS hops. The brewery has locations in Queens and Brooklyn, and will be opening a third location in the Finger Lakes region.

While the state’s farm brewing law offered some hope for hop growers, there are very few New York breweries operating solely under this license, which currently requires 60-percent of all ingredients to be from New York State. As it stands now, the law will bump this up to 90-percent in 2024. Breweries that want the incentives offered under the law, but still want to make Citra hazies, operate with dual licenses. They get the best of both worlds by brewing a small amount of beer within the guidelines of the farm brewer’s license while doing whatever they want with the rest of their production under their standard license.

In a short amount of time, New York hop growers have been able to re-establish an industry that is making world-class hops. Prior challenges in the form of disease and pest infestation have largely been resolved. The most significant challenge these farmers now face is the market. Consumers interested in supporting local agriculture, and reducing the carbon footprint of their beer, need to tell their favorite local brewers that they would like beer made with NYS ingredients.

It must be noted that there may be a new threat in town. The hop plant’s old cousin cannabis may prove to be much more lucrative crop for those with the land and ability as New York State just passed legislation that, among other things, legalizes the use of cannabis for adults, and creates a system for those looking to grow, process, distribute and sell it.