Interest in traditional Czech beer culture has been growing outside of its homeland. This is in part due to a general renewed interest in varying lager styles of beer. It has been bolstered by Instagramable pictures of varying pours from Lukr side-pull faucets.

Here in the US, the breweries and bars with attention to detail serve Czech-style beer in a glass style generally found in the Czech Republic. Typically, that means a Tübinger. Yet this certainly isn’t the only glass used, and as their beer culture is evolving, it’s interesting to see glassware choices offered by establishments old and new. Before we get to that, let’s start with a quick recap of the Tübinger.

The Tübinger is a specific handled beer glass with dimples. Its origins go back to the late 1800s in Germany, but it’s a rarity there and it is much more common in the Czech Republic these days. Its design lends itself particularly well to the traditional hladinka pour, which you can see in the beers below. A proper pour will result in the foam ending right around where the dimple portion of the mug begins.

You can read more about the Tübinger here. It’s important to note that this mug is not the same as the British dimple mug and its modern replicas. There’s no need to be snobby about it. It’s just worth knowing that they’re different mugs from different cultures.

Branded Tübinger mugs by the Czech breweries Budějovický Budvar, Únětický pivovar and Vinohradský pivovar. Source: https://www.instagram.com/

In the Czech Republic, breweries like Budějovický Budvar (aka Czechvar in the United States), Únětický pivovar and Vinohradský pivovar have branded Tübingers. Even Pilsner Urquell has one. But Urquell and Budvar also have the luxury of creating proprietary mugs. For younger breweries with fewer resources that feel the impacts more from glass shortages and long production times, alternative styles can be appealing. Especially if they’re breaking from old traditions. More on that later.

Given Urquell’s size and popularity, their mug is one of the most iconic Czech beer glasses (to be clear, Urquell sells a variety of glasses, but the mug pictured below is the most well-known and ubiquitous). While the design is distinctive, it incorporates the elements commonly shared by most Czech beer glasses.

The classic Pilsner Urquell mug being used with a Lukr faucet. Source: Pilsner Urquell.

Typical Czech beer glasses are found in 0.3 (třetinka) to 0.5 (půllitr) liter sizes. They are handled mugs with thick glass, which some note is important to maintaining temperature (others disagree with this sentiment).

The mugs are generally referred to as a "krýgl", though they are sometimes called “sklenice s uchem”, which means “glass with an ear”. Kozel is known for its horned (rohatá) mug. Overall, these glasses work well with the increasingly popular Lukr faucet as noted by Mirek Nekolný, a Pilsner Urquell Master Bartender.

Kozel’s “rohatá”, or horned mug. Source: Pilsner Urquell.

While mugs and side-pull faucets have been around in the Czech Republic for a while, Lukr has only been around since the 1990s. Its unique design, with a ball valve, flow control regulator (compensator), and tap screen, create decadent foam.

According to Nekolný, tumblers (štucs) became popular in the Czech Republic in the 90s. Perhaps the shift back to mugs is due to the rise in popularity of the Lukr faucets and their inherent compatibility with stout-shaped glassware. The reason for this is the shape and length of the faucet, which is inserted into a glass when pouring beer. This is a practice discouraged in other drinking cultures.

Budvar’s new mug, manufactured by Sahm. Source: Budweiser Budvar (Czechvar)

Like Urquell, Budvar sells a variety of drinkware. However, the brewery released a new mug in 2020 (shown above) and has made it a point to highlight it ever since. It’s clearly something that’s important to the company.

Gabriela Kudrnacova, Budvar’s brand manager, says “the glass is one of the most impactful items we possess as it is in direct and natural contact with the customer.”

The new mug is manufactured by Sahm. In addition to the custom drinkware they produce, Sahm also makes several other commonly used glasses embraced by the Czech beer community. Some of these are depicted below.

A selection of glassware produced by Sahm that one might find in a Czech pub. Source: Sahm.

Czech beer culture continues to evolve though, and some are looking outside of their culture for inspiration. Pivovar Matuška is an excellent example. The brewery began in 2009 and makes a variety of beer styles. They do make traditional Czech lager, but they also brew IPA, Stout, Wheat beers, ESB et. al. To accommodate these varying styles, the brewery offers several types of glasses.

An array Pivovar Matuška glassware reflecting its multicultural portfolio. Source: Pivovar Matuška.

More of a traditional Czech-style glass by Pivovar Matuška. Source: Pivovar Matuška.

The range of glasses serves their portfolio well, but the brewery isn’t militant about which should be used for a particular beer. Matuška Managing Director Matěj Šůcha notes “our customers can choose what type of glass they prefer. We are not pedantic in a way that if someone orders a keg of lager and a case of Nonic glasses, we don't tell them they can't do that, but we do offer some info about the glasses so they know what it should be used for.”

Matuška Co-owner and Head Brewer Adam Matuška is also a founder of the brewery Dva Kohouti. This newer venture is in partnership with the Ambiente restaurant group, which is also behind the Lokal tank pub chain and Pult, a craft beer bar.

Dva Kohouti is similar to Matuška in the range of beer styles they make. However, their glassware program differs. Dva Kohouti solely uses the dimple mug that is closer in design to the traditional British dimple mug. In a 2018 Instagram post, the brewery recognizes the mug is in the English style, but notes they find it ideal to serve their variety of beer styles.

Dva Kohouti uses a British-style dimple mug for its Czech and non-Czech style beer. Source: Dva Kohouti.

Opened in 2013, Vinohradský pivovar also follows these beer production trends. When it comes to glassware though, they use the Tübinger for their Czech lager. A shaker pint (aka straight glass) and a Teku glass meets the needs for their other brews.

In addition to their Tübinger shown earlier, Vinohradský pivovar also makes use of the shaker pint (aka the straight glass) and the Teku to serve their range of beers. Source: Vinohradský pivovar.

The recently opened Pult typically offers six lagers on tap and packaged offerings of varying styles from around the world. The bulk of their beer is served in a simple, unbranded panel mug. A stemmed glass is used for their other beer offerings.

This is reflective of one way to deal with the changing nature of Czech beer culture. Though not a tied house and free to serve an array of styles (they notably have both Pilsner Urquell and Budvar on tap, which is uncommon), Pult continues to keep its glassware program streamlined. This is traditional in a sense and has certain efficiencies. It’s in contrast to what you find at a beer bar in Belgium or even the United States.

Amid the thriving Czech beer scene, the Tübinger is still common, and likely will be for some time. Again, many breweries offer this mug with their branding. They’re common in pubs and restaurants, and offer an accepted and reliable alternative for tied pubs that, for example, may be connected to Pilsner Urquell and use their proprietary mug, but offer one or two other beers. Jan Fišera of Únětický pivovar puts it in simple terms, “this type of glass has been tried and tested for us for a long time and we are satisfied with it.”

One last item of note that came up repeatedly in the responses received for this post is glass/serving size. In the past, 0.3 and 0.5L have been common serving sizes. However, 0.4L is rising in popularity as the only serving size for some. Kudrnacova at Budvar notes this is “quite a thing in modern places” and Šůcha at Matuška says “people have gotten accustomed to it quite easily.”

For Dva Kohouti, their British-style dimple mug is a pint, which means when served with a proper amount of foam, consumers receive a 0.4L beer.

This is also the serving size at the famed brewery/restaurant U Fleků. While you can buy a variety of drinkware in differing sizes in their gift shop, they only serve their beer in an unmarked 0.4L Salzburg mug by Sahm.

Support for the 0.4L serving size is not universally accepted though. Fišera notes that many find it one sip too much, or one sip not enough. I see merit to all though and find it best for each establishment to pick whatever meets their needs.

Evelyn and Howard Smith welcomed twin girls, Lorraine and Roberta, into the world on November 14, 1949, at Mount Vernon Hospital in Mount Vernon, New York. One day later, Ruth Kain gave birth to her son, Michael, four years to the day after the birth of her first son.

Over subsequent years, the Smith family would recall how Ruth requested and received beer shortly after giving birth. It was brought to her in a takeout container from a nearby bar. Some might say it was too soon for a drink, but certainly any new mother is entitled to a cold one.    

Later, Michael’s older brother, Vincent, would marry Lorraine and Roberta’s cousin, Patricia (the marriage resulted in the birth of three boys, including one beer blogger). Eventually, the familial connection to the Mount Vernon Hospital maternity ward was made. While the story is cute, what most grabbed my attention was the takeout container.

Of course, most of us are familiar with growlers. And sure, they’ve come in varying forms and materials. But the growler from the late 40s that was described to me is something akin to a cardboard take-out soup container. I had never heard of this before.

A little online sleuthing brought me to the always rewarding JK's Miscellaneous Beer Pages. In particular, this page. Sure enough, there was a period where this type of vessel was used in the US for to-go beer.

A Little Background

The use of growlers in the US seems to have been particularly popular beginning in the 1890s. There are varying stories that explain why the term “growler” is used, and I’m not going to get into that here. However, over the years “growler” has generally referred to a container of varying composition used to take draft beer off-site from a commercial establishment.

In the late 1800s/early 1900s, a growler was often just a pail. It was not uncommon to see people carrying these pails from a bar to private residences or places of work. The saying “rushing the growler” was used to describe this activity, and the people who did it were often referred to as “bucket boys” (“Kesseljunges” to German immigrants).

The Temperance Movement and Growlers

As the Temperance movement was on the rise, growlers became a target, especially as children often rushed the growler for their parents and other adults. Rhetoric like the following from the Michigan Campaign Manual for a Dry State was not uncommon:

“Little children without clothes, without food and without fire cannot compel a maudlin father to stop exchanging his dimes for growlers of beer. But isn’t a great, strong city, founded by a man who wouldn’t cheat an Indian, powerful enough to stop this growler traffic?”

Due to this growing movement, a 1913 edition of the National Bulletin notes the need to find creative ways to dodge the societal resistance to rushing the growler:

“In the old days an ordinary tin pail was the vessel mostly used, and nobody had any qualms of conscience in returning with it filled to overflowing with foaming “suds.” But those days are no more. To rush a “growler” nowadays means that you will be socially ostracized in your neighborhood. There are a dozen and one ways of disguising the “growler.” Among the most popular is “Fanny.” This is a curved receptacle, about eight inches long and three wide, so designed to fit under your coat and not bulge too much…With a “Fanny” under your coat one might meet the clergyman or hold conversation with Mrs. White Ribboner, and neither would imagine that you were taking home a pint.” (note: white ribbons are a symbol of the Woman's Christian Temperance Union.)

Ruth’s Growler

Returning to the vessel used for my grandmother, its origins go back to the pre-prohibition era. A company called Sealright was noted in a 1964 New York Times article for making paper containers for draft beer at least as far back as 1917. The article noted how this product modernized rushing the growler.  

The Sealright containers were cylindrical, paper products that had varying coatings over time. Coatings included wax and plastic.

Sealright didn’t make this product solely for beer, and once prohibition hit, they advertised widely for a variety of other products like ice cream, cottage cheese, and even oysters. As they said, it was “a safe clean way to carry moist foods”.

Cardboard beer containers from the JK's Miscellaneous Beer Pages website.

Though some states were reluctant to allow growlers after Prohibition, their use did spring up again. As shown on the Jess Kidden page, breweries like Pabst, Miller, and Utica Club made use of them. These containers morphed into the shape many now associate with milk cartons. They are still used for beer in Africa where some umqombothi producers use them.

Umqombothi cartons from an article in Taste.

With the ubiquity of packaged beer, growlers began to fade in the 1950s. The tradition was revived later in the century by small craft brewers. Particularly for those that didn’t have the means to produce packaged beer for customers.

My grandmother was a strait-laced, pious Irish-American Catholic. The fact that she was drinking beer in the hospital right after having a baby is a bit surprising for me. But as my dad says, “she liked her beer.” According to him, the beer she drank in the hospital was likely Rheingold or Ballantine.

My grandmother and father, Ruth and Vincent Kain (and I think my other grandparents in the background.)

The growler, in all its varying formats, doesn’t seem to be as popular as it once was in the craft beer community. However, technology has come a long way, and the quality of the beer served from one can be excellent. I doubt they will ever permanently go away as there are always going to be people who want to take the special draft-only release home, or just like to bring a little bit of the bar experience somewhere else. Like a hospital.

In a 2020 post about the nonik glass (or nonic, if you prefer), I noted its origins in the US with a blip in Germany, before it made its way to the UK. However, a reader recently passed along several Continental examples of the nonik from before its British heyday, and it led me to discover some other interesting pieces of information.

Cyril Pagniez shared several photos of nonik glasses from Germany, Belgium and France, which he notes are circa the 1930s. Cyril is a tegestologist in France with the webpage patersbier.net. He is also the communications and media manager for Brassicol', which is a breweriana club.

Cyril was kind enough to allow me to share the images here. All glassware photos in this post are courtesy of him with one exception.

Nonik glasses by French breweries c.1930s. Images courtesy of Cyril Pagniez.

Nonik glasses by Belgian breweries c.1930s. Images courtesy of Cyril Pagniez.

In my earlier post, I included this listing in a 1934 German glassware catalog. It identifies the glass as “Wulstrandbecher”. At least one brewery, Kulmbacher, used the glass. With a little more digging, I found news touting arrangements to sell Nonik Glassware in Belgium by Comptoir Bruxellois d'Exportation & d'Importation.

The nonik (on the right) as depicted in a 1934 catalog for the German glass company August Walther & Sohne AG (found online here). The glass is identified as “Wulstrandbecher”, which translates to bulb edge cup.

Kulmbacher nonik glass c.1930s. Image courtesy of Cyril Pagniez.

News posted in the November 17, 1921 edition of the Crockery and Glass Journal indicating products by the American company Nonik Glassware were to be sold in Belgium. (Retrieved from Google Books.)

Similarly, the below news clip indicates the nonik being distributed in England around the same time. However, consistent with what has been discovered with it’s early 20th century history in the US, it appears the target audience was soda fountains and not pubs.

News posted in the November 3, 1921 edition of the Crockery and Glass Journal indicating products by the American company Nonik Glassware were to be sold in England. (Retrieved from Google Books.)

The glass never took off on the Continent, and it wasn’t until Ravenhead and Dema began producing them domestically beginning in the late 1940s that the glass became ubiquitous in UK pubs for a time. (It is no longer as popular as it once was in England. Read more about modern British drinkware here.)

Speaking of British beer glasses, according to Boris Johnson, 2022 will bring back the crown stamp as a result of Brexit. Maybe.

For background, the crown stamp adorned drinkware in British pubs beginning in 1699 to ensure consumers were given a proper pint (or half pint). This started to be replaced by the CE mark (conformité européenne, or European conformity) in 2006.

Example of a nonik glass with a crown stamp. Personal collection.

Though the crown stamp was not prohibited, overseas manufacturers had little incentive to differentiate products for the British market. And the manufacturers were overseas as all major British ones had closed down by that point.

I always appreciated the stamp as a unique cultural feature, but this is not a good thing. And if the Tory government is hailing this minute issue as a great success due to Brexit, well, that’s just sad. But also hilarious since they want their traditional English stamp on a pint of mass-produced continental lager, which is overwhelmingly what most folks in Britain drink. Perhaps this glass, a kind of hybrid nonik/Pilsner glass would be most fitting.

A Pilsner-esque nonik glass. Image courtesy of Cyril Pagniez.

And who’s going to make these? I doubt the financials support the widespread production of new pint glasses with the crown stamp. In all likelihood, the CE mark will continue to be the norm.

Among all the callers who have tried to win 105.3 The Shark’s call-in radio contests, Brienne Allan may have been the most persistent. It helped pass the time on her commute to Notch Brewing in Salem, Massachusetts where she up until recently worked as Production Manager. Perhaps more importantly, she also figured winning the jackpot would alleviate the cost of her 90-minute commute from Maine.

Even with 9,000 breweries operating in the United States, job openings for brewers are few. As a result, many brewers like Allan endure an onerous commute with hidden costs of time and money, chipping away at the industry’s already modest salaries.

While it’s easy to overlook staff lives outside of work, it’s in an employer’s best interests to consider how the job impacts people when they’re off the clock. This includes commutes, the activity employees do right before they get to work. There is no one-size-fits all solution, but tools are available to avoid or mitigate the negative impacts that arise from commuting. Communication is the key element to successful initiatives.

Getting on the Road

Allan, who brought forth the #MeToo reckoning in the beer world earlier this year, made the unfortunate decision to purchase a Fiat several years back. When she bought the car, she was living in Boston and had a short commute to her old job. It was practical then, especially for parking. Shortly after that, she began working at Notch. While they appear close on the map, the commute from Boston to Salem can be challenging. She then moved to Worcester for a while, which was an hour and change.

Brienne Allan, brewer, previously with Notch Brewing in Salem, MA.

It’s not an ideal vehicle for a long commute in New England. Since she’s owned it, she’s had to constantly replace the pricey tires, spending thousands of dollars in addition to gas, tolls and other maintenance.

When Allan and her fiancé discussed where to buy a home, they settled on the Portland area. It’s about two hours from Salem, one way, depending on traffic. Though there are some breweries in the region where she likely could have found a job, it would’ve been hard for her to walk away from Notch. She connected in many ways with the brewery’s operation, culture, and focus on traditional lagers. It’s incredibly difficult to leave that environment, especially after seeing the voluminous stories of sexism, harassment and assault in the industry that were revealed after she ignited the reckoning.

Short- and Long-Term Living at/near work

Allan’s fiancé was understanding of the challenges she faced due to her commute. With over sixteen years in the business, Mike Fava knows the industry well. He was most recently the head brewer at Oxbow Brewing in Maine, where he worked for nine years.

Oxbow’s original location in Newcastle is remote, and the brewery offers its guest house for staff if they need a place to sleep. It has turned out to be very helpful as employees often live a notable distance away in more populated areas.

On occasion, Fava took advantage of this accommodation. Looking back on his old commute from Portland, he says “it is a beautiful drive. It’s coastal Maine, but doing it five days a week is tough. Instead of spending all that time in the car, I’d rather work a little longer, crash overnight, wake up the next day and get the work done.”

Mike Fava, brewer, previously with Oxbow Brewing Co. in Newcastle, ME.

Providing lodging, short- or long-term, can be mutually beneficial. There are financial benefits for employees by cutting commuting costs. Eliminating trips also results in a smaller carbon footprint. It can create greater reliability and consistency with efficiencies in personal lives and brewery operations. It can also help foster team building.

It can have its downsides on a long-term basis though. Barry Labendz, co-founder and general manager of Kent Falls Brewing in Connecticut, lived at his brewery for several years. He found being on-site meant it was much easier to get sucked into work during his off-hours.  Allan had a similar experience when at one time she lived across the street from Notch. “I ended up being there 24/7, and that’s not healthy,” she says.

These situations may be employer/management derived (e.g a late-night call asking a brewer to run into the brewhouse to make sure a valve is shut.) However, sometimes working unpaid, unscheduled hours just happens. For Allan, she would pop in for a quick temperature check, and then suddenly several hours had passed. Reflecting on his days off when he lived at his brewery, Labendz recalls periodically seeing employees being swamped. It was difficult to just sit nearby relaxing knowing he could pitch in. So he did.

He now drives an hour to get to the brewery, and says “frankly, I love it…It gives me an hour to think about work early in the morning going in, and an hour to kind of think out of work while I’m leaving.” He uses the time to listen to podcasts and catch up with family and friends, which seems harder at other times of the day.

Barry Labendz, co-founder and general manager of Kent Falls Brewing, Kent, CT.

Even though Labendz enjoys his daily trip, he recognizes that he is an owner and has a different stake in the business. The fact that the brewery’s isolated location and corresponding commute can be taxing for his staff is not lost on him. Conversations with staff and cognizance of their commutes have informed the way they operate their brewery.   

Flexible Work Schedules

Kent Falls has essentially eliminated double brew days. Staff and management agree that sending workers home with a substantial drive through rural Connecticut is not ideal after a long day of work. This flexibility is important. Instead squeezing as much out of employees as they can, the brewery follows a more considerate path.

When Oxbow opened up a second facility in Portland, where Fava lived, his commuting experience improved as he was able to spend more workdays closer to home. However, the well-being of the brewery’s staff without this luxury remained on his mind, knowing how extended periods on the road mean less downtime in their lives. Less time with family and friends.

Under his management, production staff at the brewery decided together to make the workweek four ten-hour days (aka, a 4/10). Fava and others interviewed here, as well as research and trials in the public and private sectors, note the benefits of a 4/10 work week, which includes greater productivity and employee satisfaction. It results in less commute time overall each week. It also reduces financial burdens due to gas and wear and tear on a car.   

At Industrial Arts Brewing Company, Head Brewer Jess Reaves has discussed the idea of a 4/10 week with his staff. He sees the benefits and is on board if the employees choose it, but he notes “I'm also looking at other perspectives regarding the functionality of the brewery (are people as effective, work-wise, from hours 8-10?) and safety of the team (will people get tired and make mistakes, which can easily result in injury or loss of product).”

He adds, “safety, for me, is the biggest take-away. Ensuring that folks can get to work safely, be alert and present while there, then get home at a decent time (again, safely) is paramount. Even if an employee is enthusiastic about the job and committed to making the commute work, a tired employee is not safe. Between pumps, chemicals, heat, pressure, wet floors, and machinery...” Yeah, it’s a lot to be concerned about.

Jess Reaves, Head Brewer at Industrial Arts Brewing Company, Garnerville, NY.

Some breweries will find that not all staff want to work longer days. Further, a 4/10 may cause tension if there are certain segments of an organization that cannot have flexibility. Communication is critical. 

Industrial Arts starts the conversation before an employee begins working for the brewery. Commutes come up during the interview process, particularly when an applicant lives a substantial distance from the facility. Reaves says “just because an applicant is driven and wants the job, that doesn’t mean a long commute will be sustainable in the long run.” The dialogue helps keep everyone on the same page from day one.

Dreux Dillingham at Métier Brewing in Woodinville, Washington has similar conversations with his staff. He has found that allowing different shift leads results in staff arriving in a better frame of mind. Better prepared for the day’s work because they were able to more efficiently commute at off-peak times. 

Métier Brewing’s General Manager and Production Manager Dreux Dillingham with CEO Rodney Hines.

Dillingham is the General Manager, Production Manager and partner at the brewery and certainly does not have a traditional commute. After several years and several moves, progressively getting further from the metropolitan Seattle area (where Métier is located) to find a good quality of life at an affordable price, he now lives 120 miles from the brewery in Grays Harbor County. To accommodate the distance, his role within the organization had to change. He now performs several of his duties remotely, commuting just a few days a week.

On the days he does commute, Dillingham will often listen to music. Occasionally he’ll call into a meeting. Sometimes, though, he simply tries to enjoy the silence.

Opening new facilities/changing place of employment

As he’s no stranger to a tough commute, and understanding of its detriments, Dillingham has been discussing the opening of a second facility with his staff since early on in the process to determine how to make it work. Employers must be clear upfront about where a job will be located, and understanding that employees often consider that information when seeking a job. Conversations with staff are important if a new facility’s location will impact them, especially if there’s the possibility for a longer commute.

Métier recently announced its newest facility will be in partnership with the Seattle Mariners. It’s named “Steelhead’s Alley” in honor of the 1946 Negro league baseball team the Seattle Steelheads. The facility will be a brewery, taproom and event space. And they’re not stopping there. The brewery is currently looking for another production facility location in Seattle.

Back in the northeast, while Allan was aware early on of Notch’s plans to expand, and understanding of why it ultimately landed in Boston, it was a big concern for her. It added forty-five minutes to her commute, ironically, back to the city where she lived when she bought her Fiat. On top of the longer distance, the new facility is only brewing Czech lager, and as she says “a Czech lager day can be anywhere from ten hours to sixteen hours depending on how many decoctions it is.” Notch founder and Head Brewer Chris Lohring recognizes this, saying “yeah, if you’re brewing Czech lager, you want to live close.”

The reality is few have the luxury of an ideal commute and an ideal job. Accordingly, employers and employees should work together to make the situation the best it can be. This is what Lohring and his staff have done at Notch. With two facilities now, he’s happy to assign staff where it’s convenient for them, to the extent possible. Lohring also provides flexibility by letting the production team set its schedule, which can allow for commutes at off-peak times.

Recognizing the burdens of the additional commute, Lohring makes efforts to help alleviate the impact. Speaking of brew days at the new facility in Boston, while she didn’t love the commute, Allan says “when you’re there, it’s so wonderful getting to share the experience and the knowledge with the other brewers, and just hanging out. Everyone gets lunch, everyone gets dinner, everyone gets a hotel room. He’s (Lohring) very accommodating to people’s time in that way.”

Commutes and Wellness

Breweries that genuinely care about their staff should consider the mental and physical health issues that a commute can cause. Exhaustion, stress, anxiety et. al. can all result. Aside from the personal toll this takes on an individual, it can lead to unproductive and dangerous work environments.

Communication, flexibility in work schedules and fostering wellness at and outside of work are some tools to mitigate these impacts. Often, changes can be made that meet staff needs and still allow the brewery to hit production targets.  Without making use of initiatives like these, breweries are more prone to staff burnout and turnover as suggested by several interviewed here.  

Fava says that after Oxbow implemented the 4/10 workweek, he noticed much more watercooler discussions by staff about the activities they do outside of work. Their personal lives seemed to improve, and it accordingly improved their well-being on the job. It became clear that having conversations with staff to understand their concerns and preferences on issues like this was so important to keeping them happy, and as a result, making them better employees.

Bolstering the quality of employee’s time off the clock, Oxbow got lower premiums for their insurance by offering staff a stipend if used for healthcare-related activities (e.g. gym memberships, ski passes, yoga classes). Financially, it’s nearly a wash for the brewery, but the benefits can be tremendous. Implementing a measure like this may require a little bit more effort on the admin side for a brewery, but again, those that truly care about their employees, and want to retain them, should be willing to do it.

Breweries that can provide lodging at or near a brewery need to be cognizant of the potential adverse impacts of those arrangements. First, parameters must be set to avoid inappropriate behavior. It must be clear what is and what is not acceptable. Having these identified can help everyone feel safe and welcome, and help if an employee needs to be terminated.

Beyond that, some of the issues that may arise will seem very familiar to those that have been thrust into a home/work environment since the onset of Covid-19. If the situation is not properly managed, with work and home life separated, it can be unhealthy.

Staff work hours should always be respected by management. Of course, an emergency can be an exception, but owners should otherwise not allow staff to pitch in during their off time. Further, brewery operations and staff housing should be physically separated as much as possible. People simply need quality downtime from work. Away from work.

Having experienced it himself, Labendz sees the challenges. He now finds that distancing himself from his brewery has several benefits. It allows him to be much more “present” when he’s at work, and when he’s home. He now lives with his significant other, and says “I’m not totally surprised that removing myself from living at the center of my work allowed me to be a better partner.”

Communication, Understanding and Leadership

Further acknowledging Lohring’s efforts to address burdens on his staff at Notch, Allan says “he’s very present in the struggle. He understands.” It’s not surprising as there can be a built-in appreciation of the challenges by ownership when they’re brewers too. As Lohring points out, non-brewer owned breweries have a “different mentality.”

This can show when discussing shift times and providing flexibility. Some operations may be less inclined to consider staff input. Fava says “I think those are some decisions that are certainly financially driven and growth-driven and come with the territory. I think there is a choice there.” 

This doesn’t mean all non-brewer owned companies are unwilling to listen and learn from their staff. Communication and education with management/ownership and staff should be a two-way street. That’s quite important for owners to recognize. As Allan says “we need leadership at breweries that make these rules and implement these policies on behalf of other people’s well-being, because if a company doesn’t know that they should be doing it, then they won’t.”

Career Building

As commutes come with costs and people often choose where they live based on housing prices, staff wages need to be part of these industry-wide conversations, particularly as employees gain experience and provide greater value to an organization.

It’s not uncommon for breweries to be located in unaffordable areas. Young brewers willing to live in less than ideal housing situations can often make it work early in their career to be close to work. Those getting older, and looking to settle down, will likely look for other arrangements. Without a significant salary increase, this means a need to either move further away from the expensive neighborhoods or find another career altogether.

Dillingham thinks a reassessment of how brewers are valued is needed. He notes, “we’ve come too far as an industry now over the last twenty or thirty years to say anymore that we’re just a motley crew of hourly workers and misfits…these are skilled professionals and people have to be seen and compensated that way.” To him, it’s worth it to pay people better, instead of treating them as disposable and just bringing on another young person. By doing so, brewers will be able to create a sustainable career, provide for their family, should they chose to have one, and create a better quality of life.

Almost Home

Fava recently left his job at Oxbow (at the time we initially spoke, he was still an employee and spoke freely). Since he was able to work a fair amount where he lived in Portland, his commute wasn’t necessarily a factor in his decision to leave. It was simply time for a change.  

These days, his average commute time is fourteen minutes by bike to Novare Res, the well-known beer bar in Portland, where he’s the general manager. He used to play rolodex roulette on his long rides, where he often was able to catch up with old friends. The downside of his new commute is not being able to talk to these folks as much anymore.

Not surprisingly, the commute from Maine proved to be too much for Allan. Her last day of full-time employment was September 1st. Lohring was shocked she lasted as long as she did after her move. “The day she told me she was moving to Portland, I knew her time was coming to an end. A four-hour commute is not sustainable”, he said.

Her role in the #MeToo movement has ignited a passion that she is supporting by going back to college to study human resources. She now speaks to people regularly on issues related to diversity, equity and inclusion, and will continue advocating for brewers and others in the industry. This includes participation in the Brave Noise initiative, the #NotMe platform, and Women of the Bevolution.

Home

The thousands of breweries that have opened in the last decade or so need to mature to sustainably grow. It has become incredibly clear that these businesses need to step up their human resource efforts. Yet, it’s not just the smaller operations that struggle with these issues. Numerous examples have been revealed just in the recent months where large breweries have failed their staff in this regard (e.g. Mikkeller, BrewDog, and Goose Island.)

Breweries of all sizes need to comprehensively and equitably think about their employee’s well-being on and off the clock. Staff commutes are one component of this. The tools are available to make a difference. It’s up to each brewery to decide whether to use them.

(Note: photos included in this post were provided by those photographed.)

A pint of cask Bitter in a nonic is the first thing that pops up in my head when I think of British beer. Yet this image doesn’t align with their beer culture these days as neither the beer style nor glass are particularly popular. While it might be easy to lament their decline, especially for Bitter, the British beer scene is incredibly vibrant right now. This will be explored in detail in Matthew Curtis’ forthcoming book, Modern British Beer.

Modern British Beer book cover. Image source: CAMRA.

A recently announced promotion for the book caught my attention due to the glass it included. It’s essentially a stemmed Pilsner glass. According to the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA), publishers of the book, “it is a glass that’s accessible for a wide range of beer drinkers.”

A tasting glass sold with a special offer from CAMRA for the book. Image source: CAMRA.

CAMRA has made great progress lately in promoting tradition while recognizing the need to incorporate contemporary trends. It’s the organization’s traditional component that had me assume they advocate for the use of dimple mugs and nonics, perhaps even the tulip glass often associated with Guinness. These are the glasses that Cicerone identifies in its glassware guide as British and Irish glassware styles. However, they are not commonplace in contemporary use, and neither are the styles of beer traditionally associated with those glasses (with the exception of the beers from Guinness).

From Cicerone’s Guide to Beer Glassware. The depiction is not quite consistent with modern British beer drinking culture.

Some changes were taking place in the pre-modern British beer era that impacted the glassware styles that were/are used. Before the craft beer revolution took hold of England, the growth of lager sales had been the most notable change to the domestic beer culture. This is now the overwhelming majority of beer consumed in the country. It’s growth brought different drinking vessels. Around the same time (and perhaps because of this, at least in part), glassware manufacturers in the country known for making some of the iconic domestic beer glass styles were closing down.

Since its inception, part of CAMRA’s mission has been to promote the proper serving of real ale. To them, a specific glass style isn’t crucial to enjoying a good pint. Accordingly, the organization generally doesn’t advocate for a particular shape.

CAMRA celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. In honor of the occasion, it released a commemorative glass. Its shape is the one that’s most common these days. The straight glass (aka straight-sided, conical, or shaker pint) is ubiquitous in the United Kingdom. Despite the negative connotation it has here in the US craft beer scene, it’s generally embraced in the UK.

CAMRA’s 50th Anniversary souvenir glass. Image source: CAMRA.

The straight glass is not new to UK beer drinkers. Beer writer Martyn Cornell identifies its use going back at least as far as the 1920s and 30s when it was referred to as a tumbler. Countless breweries have used it over the years, including Adnams, Batemans, Black Sheep, Fuller’s and Marston’s. A wealth of younger ones like Southwark, Verdant and Deya use them as well. However, this younger generation of breweries will often have more elegant glassware offerings as well.

Modern British glassware offerings from Southwark, Verdant and Deya. Image sources from the preceding links.

Given its ubiquity and general embrace, it’s not surprising then that the glass image on the cover of Curtis’ book is the straight glass. It’s the “great leveler”, according to him. Versatile and inclusive. CAMRA’s Alex Metcalfe notes a similar sentiment, stating “the cover is an homage to the diversity and inclusion in the modern British beer scene.” As far as the book’s contents, he notes “for the most part, the container is not the central issue for us. Sensory experience, good company and exploring modern British beer culture are all at the core of Modern British Beer.”

Curtis explains it’s important to keep beer accessible and to suggest a particular glass must be used for a certain beer, potentially forcing consumers to spend more to enjoy it, can contribute to gatekeeping. While consumers don’t need to use a straight glass to feel that they’re egalitarian, those that do not have a selection of Teku’s to enjoy their hazy IPA should not be disenfranchised either.

To CAMRA, the straight glass imagery on the cover is important, as Metcalfe puts it, because it “is a kind of universal emblem that’s recognisable from many beer drinking contexts, locations, and cultures. Considering the transatlantic exchange of influences within beer culture and brewing over the last 50 years it is particularly relevant to the themes explored within Modern British Beer.” He adds “it is a definitive move away from the tankard in that the associations with a tankard are perhaps heavily weighted - this is a light touch approach from us, indicative of a wider feeling that it really it is up to the reader to choose their glassware.”

Sheffield brewery Saint Mars of the Desert is a wonderful representation of the modern British beer scene. The primary vessel they use to serve their beer is a stemmed tulip-like glass. They also use a Willi Becher and a dimple mug. This is a fitting, well-rounded selection. That said, brewer and owner Dann Paquette says that if he goes out to a pub and orders a pint of Bitter, he’s “hoping for the nonic glass or the old man dimple mug.”

Saint Mars of the Desert’s glassware selection strikes a perfect balance to serve patrons their varying styles of beer. Image source: Saint Mars of the Desert.

For Five Points Brewing Company in London, glassware is an “advertiser and an amplifier”, as Ed Davy from the brewery notes. It’s no secret that glassware offers a wonderful opportunity to advertise a brand. He elaborates, “in its simplest form, this just puts a logo in the customer’s hand; at its most advanced, I’ve seen breweries put QR codes on their glasses that link to tasting notes, promotional giveaways or an info-page about the brewery. Branded glassware is one of the most immediate and direct ways of establishing a relationship with the customer and informing them about the beer they’re drinking.”

Regarding amplification, Davy says “well-designed glass can improve the drinking experience by intensifying existing elements of the drink.” While different styles of glassware can amplify in different ways, he adds “you can create feelings of nostalgia by serving cask ale in ‘traditional’ dimpled jugs”, and this is something the brewery does at its taproom for its cask beer. To be most efficient with space at their pub, The Pembury Tavern, the straight glass is used. For kegged beer, they use a Willi Becher.

London’s Five Points Brewing Company is known for being a contemporary brewery keeping many of the traditional British beer styles alive. This doesn’t prevent them from making use of a variety of glassware styles. Image sources: Five Points Brewing Company.

Metcalfe mentions he understands that for some, the dimple mug is “prime Instagram fodder”. He suspects this may be because “it’s mostly the exception to the rule and now a nostalgic novelty.” That said, anyone paying attention to Five Points’ social media accounts will likely attest to how the brewery has been able to successfully leverage this nostalgia with the mug.

A tulip glass would be ideal for Davy in an everyday pub, but he’s not too picky, as long as it’s clean. However, things are different in his local pub. “All that goes out the window. I don’t care about the glass style, I don’t even want glass - I want my pewter tankard, which lives behind the bar.” Talk about nostalgia.

Curtis is a bit like me when it comes to glassware. Ambivalent about what others do, but a little picky with personal consumption. Also like me, he gravitates toward the Willi Becher.

Despite romantic notions of older glassware styles that people like myself may have, British beer drinkers have moved on to other vessels. And that’s probably a good thing. If I’m being honest, glasses like the nonic and dimple aren’t great. The craft beer scene in England is thriving and dynamic, and the glassware that’s accompanying it has changed for the better.

CAMRA will be launching a new online beer style resource soon. Examples were photographed by Nicci Peet in a mix of contemporary and traditional glassware. Keep an eye out for that, as well as Curtis’ book, which is being released on August 12th. Those in the United States can order the book through Waterstones. It’s highly recommended. I will be doing a write-up on it for PorchDrinking.com.

Note: for further reading on the history of beer drinkware in England, I suggest the above referred to Zythophile blog post ‘More notes towards a history of the beer mug’ and the book Pub Beer Mugs and Glasses by Hugh Rock. Also, if you’re interested in the history of the nonic, a glass with US origins, see a prior post here.