Posts tagged #viennalager
Rethinking Vienna Lager in Mexico

Vienna Lager has seen a bit of interest in the last year or so. Notably, Andreas Krennmair wrote an excellent book dedicated to the style. Jeff Alworth blogged about it here, and in the August-September issue of Craft Beer and Brewing Magazine. I also discussed the revival of sorts in its homeland in this post.

Krennmair’s text succinctly laid out the case to debunk the old story about Vienna Lager rising in popularity in Mexico during Maximilian I’s reign as Emperor of the Second Mexican Empire from 1864 to 1867. Simply put, this was not possible because there was no way to make a bottom fermented beer in Mexico at that time in such a warm climate with no artificial refrigeration available.

After reading Krenmmair’s book, I wanted to have greater clarity of Vienna Lager’s story in Mexico, or its lack thereof. However, most of the readily accessible historic writing speaks broadly about beer, not particular styles. While some Mexican beers now use “Vienna” in their branding for Amber Lagers, it is unclear when this began. I have not seen a single reference to Vienna in any of the historic documents. Further research is needed. That said, here are some additional thoughts and reiterations.

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Mexican lager brewing didn’t start until in the mid-1880s with brewers primarily from Germany and Switzerland, many of whom had trained in the United States. The growth at this time was due to the completion of a rail line between El Paso, Texas and Mexico City, providing access to grain and brewing equipment, including refrigeration. This kicked off a period of dramatic growth in domestic production.

Some of the literature about these early breweries is incorrect or misleading by confusing when a brewery opened, and when it began making lager. For example, it is true that Compania Cervecera Toluca y Mexico, makers of Victoria, began operations in 1865, but they were producing ales. It was not until two decades later that a new owner, Santiago Graf, began making lager.

This was also during an era of peace and prosperity in Mexico, particularly for allies of the dictator General Porfirio Díaz. Díaz was instrumental in the fight against Maximilian I. Accordingly, there’s a good chance he would not have fostered the success of breweries honoring an Austrian style beer. Maybe he wasn’t so petty. He had really fought against the French, not the Austrians, so who knows.

The USA’s Influence on Mexican Brewing

As noted above, many of the brewers for the original Mexican lager breweries had been trained north of the border. Prior to the domestic explosion in production, the bulk of beer being consumed was imported from the US, though some Germans and other Europeans that had settled in Mexico in the late 1800s were drinking imported beer from their homelands. Around this time, American lager brewers were primarily making their versions of Bohemian Pilsner, Munich Dunkel and Vienna Lager.

Most of these original Mexican breweries were importing barley and hops. The former from the US and Germany, and the latter primarily from Germany and Czechia.

It seems clear that Vienna Lager changed in the United States, and then made its way to Mexico as a different form of amber lager that included adjuncts, primarily rice, but also corn. Adjuncts were part of Mexican lager brewing in these early days, which is contrary to resources that indicate they came later.

Big Business

It must be understood that prior to this growth, Mexico had no significant beer brewing culture or history. Gauss and Beatty (1) note “when Mexico’s modern beer industry sprung up in the 1890s, it did not do so organically…Rather, it emerged due to major transitions in the global economy that coincided with a new era of political peace and economic growth in Mexico.” This is not to suggest that the breweries weren’t making quality products, just that their motive may have been more profit driven than craft and passion for beer.

And it was big business. Toluca, for example, invested $500,000 once Graf took over, and Compania Cerveceria de Chihuahua began in 1896 with $1M. Some were making 100,000 barrels per year. These massive new breweries were able to greatly reduce imports of American companies like Anheuser-Busch.

Vienna Lager versus Amber Lager

It seems quite likely that the overwhelming majority of beer brewed in North America called “Vienna Lager” was (and is) instead a Vienna-inspired beer. The primary commonalities between the original and New World versions would be that they were lager, and that they were amber in color. Beyond that, perhaps with the slight exception of hops, the beers differed.

There is no strong indication that Vienna malt in any significant amount was included in the grain bill for these historic beers in the US. And, there is no indication that it was used in Mexico at all. How can you have Vienna Lager without Vienna malt? Yeast and water profiles likely varied . Finally, adjuncts are certainly not traditional for this style.

Generally speaking, I believe the majority of these beers should not be called Vienna Lager. Amber Lager seems safer. This is reflected in the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) style guidelines, which include a category called International Amber Lager. It essentially captures most of the beer sold as Vienna Lager. Dos Equis Amber, for example, is identified as a beer that fits within this category.

Mexican Craft Breweries Today

Unlike the original lager breweries in Mexico, there are newer breweries looking to Old World brewing traditions. One of the first was a small restaurant/brewery chain called Beer Factory, which opened in late 1990s. Beer Factory makes a Vienna called Santa Fe, and they follow the Reinheitsgebot by not using “adjuntos”. Cerveza Minerva is doing the same.

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Though the increased appreciation of lager in the last few years here in the United States has leaned on the pale side, there does seem to be a growing interest in darker styles. As I noted in my last post on Vienna Lager, the 2015 BJCP style guidelines state it’s on a watch list for potential movement to the Historical category. Since 2015, and since my last post, the beer has put up a small fight here in the US, in Austria, and in Mexico. It might be sticking around a little bit longer.

1 Gauss, Susan M. & Beatty, Edward (2014). The World’s Beer: The Historical Geography of Brewing in Mexico in The Geography of Beer: Regions, Environment, and Societies, Patterson, Mark & Hoalst-Pullen, Nancy (eds).

The Revival of Vienna Lager in…Vienna
Source: Muttermilch Vienna Brewery

Source: Muttermilch Vienna Brewery

While Vienna Lager had long been a stranger in its birthplace, there are signs of hope as the style is being embraced by a new generation of brewers. Though this rebirth may not be a precise re-creation of the original, it is nonetheless exciting to see Austrians once again giving attention to lager brewed with Vienna malt that is somewhere between a Helles and a Dunkel.

Vienna Lager transformed as it made its way from Austria to Czechia, Mexico, the United States and elsewhere. Using a variety of different malts, particularly Munich and Crystal, the style grew darker in color and sweeter in taste. Some of the new brewers in Vienna are also using a blend of malts, and nontraditional hop varieties, straying from the original style. What is the result? I cannot say from experience, but I am optimistic.

Is it appropriate to continue calling these beers Vienna Lager? Most that are identified as a Vienna Lager fall within the parameters set forth in the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) Style Guidelines. Yet, the guidelines for this style are not in keeping with the original version. If a lager is brewed with a majority of Vienna Malt, is roughly in the range of 5 to 5.5 ABV, finishes on the dry side, and falls somewhere in the vicinity of deep gold to amber in color, I’m fine with that being called a Vienna Lager. I’m sure others will disagree.

It’s worthwhile to note that Vienna lagers keeping with the original style can be found. The historic brewery Ottakringer makes a version that uses Vienna and Melanoidin malts, hopped with Saaz. Ottakringer has an offshoot brewery called Brauwerk, and they have a lineup consistent with American trends. Their “imperial Vienna lager” called Crown Princess, comes in at 7.2-percent alcohol, and has an added hop presence from a whirlpool addition.

The gypsy brewery known as Brew Age focuses on American style brews, but makes a Vienna Lager as they find it important to have a traditional beer as part of their core lineup. They chose Vienna because they did not want to make a Märzen (which in Austria is more like a helles), the ubiquitous and mass-produced brew.

“Malzstrasse”, or “Malty Way”, Brew Age’s Vienna, is what they describe as an “ode to malt”. According to brewmaster Johannes Kugler “we work with almost exclusively Vienna Malt and add only a hint of Caramel Malt. Compared to other Vienna Lagers in Austria, ours is much drier in taste and does not have an overly sweetish caramel character which some examples have. So a pretty quaffable beer, with still lots of malt character without being sweet. What is not exactly traditional in our version is the choice of hops. While Saaz would be the old school hop to go with, we decided to go with Hallertau Mittelfrüh, since we like the fresh flowery-citrusy quality of it.” The brewery is not targeting a specific demographic with this beer, and has found that out of all their releases, it has the widest audience.

Brew Age has a retail location in Vienna, but they make most of their beer at Brauhaus Gusswerk, just outside Salzburg. Gusswerk, while also making some modern, US-style brews, has more traditional products in their lineup. In addition to a Vienna Lager, they also make a steinbier (stone beer).

Muttermilch Vienna Brewery, located in a basement below the well-known store BeerLovers, is also making a blend of traditional and new. I love their design theme, including the one for their Vienna Lager, called Wiener Bubi (see above). Finally, 100 Blumen is also putting their subtle fingerprint on traditional styles like Vienna lager.

Vienna Lager.png

Back on this side of the Atlantic, it is also younger brewers that give hope for this style. Cerverza Minerva is keeping the Mexican tradition alive, while pFriem Family Brewers, Dovetail Brewery, and vonTrapp Brewing are making exceptional versions in the United States. Eliot Ness, the classic by Great Lakes Brewing Company, is also still alive and kicking. It’s pleasantly surprising to see that it has over 3,000 reviews on BeerAdvocate, with a rating over 4.0.

The 2015 Style Guidelines for the BJCP indicate that Vienna Lager is on the “watch list” for a potential move to the historical beer style category. The original Vienna Lager probably should be on this list. However, the modified version that many have come to know as Vienna Lager may be here a little while longer. Stay tuned, and drink lager. Light, dark, and everything in between.