Though I didn’t discriminate between styles, I had a particular fondness for traditional English ales when I got into craft beer. I may have been influenced by living very close to Mahar’s Pub in Albany, New York. The now-shuttered pub carried an excellent selection of beer from around the world, but they seemed to favor English ales. This included a well-managed cask program.

As the American craft beer industry has grown since my time in Albany, interest in English ales has not grown at the same rate. Traditional styles like Bitter, Mild, and Porter are certainly not popular. So, I was pleasantly surprised to see a few breweries in my area release some excellent ales in 2020. With concern that it has been a fluke, I reached out to them to see what their production schedules look like for 2021. Their responses are very promising.

While there are glimmers of hope for these styles, there are still challenges. Temperature is one of them.

English ales were often served too cold in the early days of the American craft beer revolution. Some breweries would often try to educate their customers, and some customers would often find ways to deal with this issue (e.g. order a cocktail and a beer, and drink the cocktail while the beer warmed up). People should understand the role temperature plays in their experience. While these beers may be good at the standard draft temperature in the US, they really shine if given the chance to warm a little. 

Another challenge is a lack of understanding of the varying English styles. This has led to brewers providing labels for these beers such as “Pub Ale”, to convey an idea of what the beer is like. This is understandable, but it should be supplemented (on the packaging, for example) with specific details about the style. “Pub Ale”, “Pale Ale”, or “English Ale” can mean a lot of things. Unless consumers know what specific styles they like or dislike, it will be hard for them to properly convey that sentiment to others.

Newburgh Brewing Company has been making a traditional Brown Ale for a few years now. On the can and on their website, they note “in the south of England, they prefer their brown ale maltier and lower in alcohol.” This distinction is important, especially since in the United States, where in the past, breweries often made the North East British version. This essentially meant a Newcastle-inspired, drier and slightly boozier ale. While I generally prefer beers on the dry side, this one is delicious. Fortunately, it has been, and will remain, a core brew for Newburgh heading into 2021. Breathe a sigh of relief.

Wild East Brewing, one of New York City’s youngest breweries, sells an Extra Special Bitter (ESB), labeled accordingly on their can, but they identify it as an English-style pale ale on their website. Similarly, Dutchess Ales released a beer this year called Heliotrope that one could certainly put in the ESB category. However, they have identified this as a Pale Ale as well. This is similar to the British breweries that identify their Bitters as Pale Ales once bottled.

The last challenge to note is clarity. Traditionally, most of these styles should at a minimum have good clarity. Perhaps not all producers aim to be traditional, and that’s okay. My preference would be to see these bright. It’s so nice to have beer with amber, brown or reddish color. Even better when the light can shine through your pint.

Threes Brewing made a Dark Mild and a Bitter this year. And they weren’t just one-offs. The Dark Mild, called Backways, is a collaboration with Burial Beer Co. and it was released a couple of times. A delicious Bitter called The World is Flat, one of my favorite beers of 2020, was also released on a number of occasions.

Co-Founder and Managing Partner Josh Stylman says Threes is “all-in” with their traditional ale production. According to Head Brewer Matt Levy, there will be a “noticeable increase” in production for these styles. He goes on to add “similar to the vibe we aim for with our lagers, a great English Ale tastes balanced and at ease. As time goes on we've realized how much these two worlds have in common. As such, we very much approach our English Ales from a lager brewer's mentality, which is to say that we allow for proper conditioning time when needed. And, we take a less-is-more approach in general.”

This is an ideal mentality, but it requires skill for proper execution. Fortunately, these young brewers and breweries have been doing an excellent job. Much better than was done a decade or two ago.

Dutchess Ales will continue making their easy-drinking ales in 2021. As soon as possible, they will resume cask ale production for the handful of accounts that serve in this format. Having a fresh Dutchess cask ale at The Grand Delancey is high on my list of things to do “when this is over.”

Wild East released a Mild this year, in addition to the ESB noted above, and both are scheduled to reappear in 2021. They’re kicking around the idea of making an English Barleywine, but that may not appear until 2022.

Folksbier, known for excellent lagers and Goses, have also been dabbling with English Ales. Late this year, they canned their Dark Mild called Little Owl. They plan to make more in 2021, and perhaps a Bitter as well.

Other breweries like Strong Rope and Suarez Family Brewery have also reliably had an English Ale or two available as part of their annual production schedules. Drowned Lands, another new brewery in the Hudson River Valley, released Hythe, a foeder ESB. It will be interesting to see where they go with that in 2021.

You may even be able to find some of these ales at IPA heavy breweries like Kings County Brewers Collective (KCBC) and Other Half. KCBC released an ESB this year, and Sam Richardson of Other Half noted on a recent Beer Sessions Radio podcast that the brewery was looking forward to making less popular styles like Dark Mild at their new location in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

Though not popular styles, the forecasted 2021 production is partially due to market demand. “We're seeing a lot of interest in low-ABV beers and a thirst for something anti-juicy”, Levy says.

Tyler March, Co-Founder and Head of Operations at Wild East shares a similar sentiment. He adds “we’re finding they’re somewhat seasonal in terms of popularity, but this year’s also been an anomaly with unpredictable sales patterns, so it’s hard to know how they’d perform over a typical year. Our impression is that they’re growing in popularity/availability within our local market and becoming more ubiquitous than they were a few years ago. Awareness and demand seem to be increasing.”

Customers may be more likely to try some of these styles from local brands they are already familiar with. This is a luxury craft beer drinkers didn’t have a generation ago when many did not have a local brewery. The obvious advantage of going local, as Joey Pepper at Folksbier points out, is that “these small beers are best when fresh.” And many craft beer drinkers these days are already familiar with drinking fresh beer.

Understanding the history and Differences Between the British Dimple and the German Tübinger

Long ago, the British dimple mug fell out of fashion in its homeland, but it is growing in popularity in the United States. With recent growth in lager production in the craft beer industry, breweries, media outlets and retailers often use a dimple when depicting lager styles of beer. However, more often than not, it’s the British dimple mug. This seems odd as the similar Tübinger Kugel glass, traditionally used in Germany and Czechia, is appropriate and readily available.

Origins

The origins of the Tübinger are connected to the Eberhard Karls University of Tübingen in the mid to late 1800s. It was here that a glass called the Tübinger Igel, a stout, handled mug, was created for the Hedgehog Academic Student Association (Akademischen Studentenverbindung Igel.) Igel means hedgehog, and the bumpy texture is designed to match accordingly.

Tübinger Igel. Source: Stein Marks

Continental beer glasses with a dimple began to appear in catalogs as early as 1878, and are identified with the word “Kugel” (more on that below). Varying styles include the dimple. Perhaps most recognizable would be the Mass (you know, that big glass mug people hoist at Oktoberfest). The Tübinger Kugel begins to appear in catalogs as early as 1906, and was sold by a number of German, Czech and Austrian firms (examples were found in other places including France and the United States).

Stölzle catalog from 1878 depicting a variety of mugs, including several with a kugel design. Source: https://www.glas-musterbuch.de/

An early Tübinger Kugel as depicted in the 1906 catalog from Krug Mundt. Source: https://www.glas-musterbuch.de/

Tübinger’s were sold by the Germany company Brockwitz for most of the early 20th century. This image is from their 1915 catalog. Source: https://www.glas-musterbuch.de/

The Tübinger is depicted in varying forms here in this 1928 catalog from Radeberg. The upper left is a standard glass. On the right it is “mit Schild”, or “with shield”, which I believe is a flat space opposite the handle for branding. On the bottom left, the glass is “mit Bodenrand”, or with bottom edge. Finally, the bottom right is a Tübinger in a different form. Source: https://www.glas-musterbuch.de/

As noted in a prior post, I have been unable to determine why the word Kugel is used, though there are a couple of possibilities. Kugel can mean bullet, ball, or sphere, and the dimples are spherical. It could also be said that the mugs have the appearance of being struck by bullets.

Tübinger Augenkanne (eye can) is also used to refer to dimpled glasses. Historically, this term may have been more prevalent in Austria.

The Tübinger predates the creation of the English dimple mug by a few decades, as, according to Martyn Cornell, the English glass was first manufactured by Ravenhead Glass in 1938. That glass quickly rose in popularity and became a standard for many pubs.

According to Cornell, the dimple “may have been inspired by the glass beer mugs with a flat hexagonal faceted exterior manufactured in Newcastle upon Tyne in the 1920s and/or early 1930s”. That’s possible. Another theory would be that someone found inspiration from the Tübinger Kugel. Or it was a hybrid of the two.

Stout shaped mugs with a hexagonal pattern that Martyn Cornell notes are from Newcastle upon Tyne, and may have been an inspiration for the dimple. Source: http://zythophile.co.uk/2015/03/28/more-notes-towards-a-history-of-the-beer-mug/

Early Ravenhead dimple mugs that Martyn Cornell suggests may be from the 1940s. Source: http://zythophile.co.uk/2015/03/28/more-notes-towards-a-history-of-the-beer-mug/

Design Analysis

The Tübinger and the British dimple are somewhat stout, handled mugs, comprised of relatively thick glass. They will generally have two to three horizontal bands of dimples. A band of flat glass is above the dimples, and a rectangular pattern, or elongated dimple, is below.

The shape of the British dimple mug is nearly straight-sided, while the Tübinger has greater curvature. It also has circular dimples, though English versions include circular and square-ish dimples with rounded corners.

The Tübinger also has a line separating the dimpled section of the mug from the flat, upper portion. On my 0.5L Sahm Tübinger from Wayfinder, this band is close to, but not matching the fill line. The mug is made in other sizes, generally from 0.25L through 0.5L. They will typically indicate the proper fill line. Historically, in England, the crown stamp was provided to indicate the design served a proper pint, but this ended in 2007. Both style glasses can now be found with CE mark for Conformité Européene (European Conformity).

The British dimple mug on the left, and the Continental Tübinger on the right.

Sensory Components

As these glasses are often confused for one another, it’s clear that there is a large amount of similarity in their design. However, there are subtle differences that impact the sensory experience when drinking from them, particularly regarding appearance and aroma.

Those that understand how important an inward curve is at the top of a glass for aroma will quickly note the difference between these two glasses. It makes the British dimple less appealing with its somewhat wide opening and lack of curvature. The Tübinger, on the other hand, with a bowl shape, has an inward curve in its upper half. It fosters better head retention and bolsters the aromatic qualities. For most styles of lager, this is important. Liz Olive, Tap Room General Manager at Notch Brewing, says “the different drinking experiences between a pub mug and a Czech mug are probably pretty subtle. But lager is subtle.”

Both glasses have handles and thick walls, and this can impact the temperature of the liquid as it is consumed. This is generally not a problem, assuming the beer is served at a proper temperature. One potential scenario where it could be an issue would be with English ales in the US, where they tend to be served too cold. Sadly, though, demand for these styles is deleteriously low.

Current Status in Europe

As noted above, the dimple mug fell out of fashion in England. While it can still be found, it is not as ubiquitous as it once was. This is despite a brief renewed interest a few years ago, according to this article in BBC News Magazine.

While it seems the Tübinger’s origins are in Germany, and still sold by German glassware companies, you are more likely to find these glasses in Czechia. But even there, it is one of many glass styles that are used. A few examples of Czech breweries that have branded Tübinger’s include Budějovický Budvar, Únětický pivovar and Vinohradský pivovar.

Branded Tübinger mugs by the Czech breweries Budějovický Budvar, Únětický pivovar and Vinohradský pivovar. Source: https://www.instagram.com/

Contemporary Manufacturers

A few contemporary companies selling Tübinger mugs include Sahm in Germany, Oberglas in Austria, and Condec in Czechia. Sahm actually has two stout dimple mugs. One is a traditional Tübinger, and the other is called Praha (Prague). The latter is not as round as the Tübinger and lacks the horizontal band.

Oberglas, who have made this glass since at least the 1930s, gives it high praise, noting in their catalog “European beer culture is virtually unimaginable without the TÜBINGER beer mug.”

Cornell noted in his above-cited post that most British dimple mugs these days are made in China by companies like Zibo Hondao Trading Co Ltd, Bengbu Longyu Glass Products (they call it a pineapple shaped glass), or the Shanghai Jingsheng Glass Co Ltd.

The British Dimple is also made by the French brand Arcoroc, and their name for the glass, “Britannia”, suggests there is an understanding that the design has a connection to England and English ales. Oddly enough, their description for the glass states it is “favoured for tasting white or Gueuze beer”.

Finally, in the United States, Libbey sells a British dimple mug. However, perhaps in an effort to generate sales, they take a very broad and erroneous approach by calling it the “Dimple Stein Beer Mug”.

In the United States

How did a dated British mug become the go-to glass for lager beer in the United States? It’s unclear, though simple ignorance could certainly be an answer. A google search for things like “dimple mug”, “beer mug”, or “German beer mug” will lead you to the Libbey glass noted above. Those not knowing the difference could easily think this glass, designed in the British tradition, is the appropriate vessel for lager.

There are lager breweries with attention to detail that properly use and sell the Tübinger. This includes Notch Brewing, Dovetail Brewery and Wayfinder Beer.

It’s incredibly hard to find breweries in the US making traditional British ales. Even harder to find one using a dimple mug. Seattle’s Machine House is the only one that comes to mind. However, there are many examples of breweries using the British dimple for their lager.

A Czech lager poured in a Tübinger mug at Notch Brewing, Salem, MA.

A Dark Mild by Suarez Family Brewery in a Libbey British dimple.

Does Any of This Matter

Yes. The distinction between these two glasses matters based on history and tradition. Aside from the subtle differences in design, they come from different places and have been vessels for different styles of beer.

Further, getting it right adds to our experience when we drink, which is important for breweries in today’s market. Ms. Olive from Notch says “I enjoy drinking a beer while watching tv or folding laundry - in a glass or straight from the can. But the EXPERIENCE, of being in the taproom, a clean, Czech mug and three fingers of dense velvety Lukr foam? There is no comparison.”

If you took out all the other experiential components, closed your eyes and tasted the same beer from each of these glasses, the experience could very well be the same. But again, there’s value in understanding the differences and the history they represent. A history that is still not well documented.

* This post was updated to eliminate a reference that suggested Pilsner Urquell does not have a Tübinger Kugel mug. They do.

Vienna Lager has seen a bit of interest in the last year or so. Notably, Andreas Krennmair wrote an excellent book dedicated to the style. Jeff Alworth blogged about it here, and in the August-September issue of Craft Beer and Brewing Magazine. I also discussed the revival of sorts in its homeland in this post.

Krennmair’s text succinctly laid out the case to debunk the old story about Vienna Lager rising in popularity in Mexico during Maximilian I’s reign as Emperor of the Second Mexican Empire from 1864 to 1867. Simply put, this was not possible because there was no way to make a bottom fermented beer in Mexico at that time in such a warm climate with no artificial refrigeration available.

After reading Krenmmair’s book, I wanted to have greater clarity of Vienna Lager’s story in Mexico, or its lack thereof. However, most of the readily accessible historic writing speaks broadly about beer, not particular styles. While some Mexican beers now use “Vienna” in their branding for Amber Lagers, it is unclear when this began. I have not seen a single reference to Vienna in any of the historic documents. Further research is needed. That said, here are some additional thoughts and reiterations.

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Mexican lager brewing didn’t start until in the mid-1880s with brewers primarily from Germany and Switzerland, many of whom had trained in the United States. The growth at this time was due to the completion of a rail line between El Paso, Texas and Mexico City, providing access to grain and brewing equipment, including refrigeration. This kicked off a period of dramatic growth in domestic production.

Some of the literature about these early breweries is incorrect or misleading by confusing when a brewery opened, and when it began making lager. For example, it is true that Compania Cervecera Toluca y Mexico, makers of Victoria, began operations in 1865, but they were producing ales. It was not until two decades later that a new owner, Santiago Graf, began making lager.

This was also during an era of peace and prosperity in Mexico, particularly for allies of the dictator General Porfirio Díaz. Díaz was instrumental in the fight against Maximilian I. Accordingly, there’s a good chance he would not have fostered the success of breweries honoring an Austrian style beer. Maybe he wasn’t so petty. He had really fought against the French, not the Austrians, so who knows.

The USA’s Influence on Mexican Brewing

As noted above, many of the brewers for the original Mexican lager breweries had been trained north of the border. Prior to the domestic explosion in production, the bulk of beer being consumed was imported from the US, though some Germans and other Europeans that had settled in Mexico in the late 1800s were drinking imported beer from their homelands. Around this time, American lager brewers were primarily making their versions of Bohemian Pilsner, Munich Dunkel and Vienna Lager.

Most of these original Mexican breweries were importing barley and hops. The former from the US and Germany, and the latter primarily from Germany and Czechia.

It seems clear that Vienna Lager changed in the United States, and then made its way to Mexico as a different form of amber lager that included adjuncts, primarily rice, but also corn. Adjuncts were part of Mexican lager brewing in these early days, which is contrary to resources that indicate they came later.

Big Business

It must be understood that prior to this growth, Mexico had no significant beer brewing culture or history. Gauss and Beatty (1) note “when Mexico’s modern beer industry sprung up in the 1890s, it did not do so organically…Rather, it emerged due to major transitions in the global economy that coincided with a new era of political peace and economic growth in Mexico.” This is not to suggest that the breweries weren’t making quality products, just that their motive may have been more profit driven than craft and passion for beer.

And it was big business. Toluca, for example, invested $500,000 once Graf took over, and Compania Cerveceria de Chihuahua began in 1896 with $1M. Some were making 100,000 barrels per year. These massive new breweries were able to greatly reduce imports of American companies like Anheuser-Busch.

Vienna Lager versus Amber Lager

It seems quite likely that the overwhelming majority of beer brewed in North America called “Vienna Lager” was (and is) instead a Vienna-inspired beer. The primary commonalities between the original and New World versions would be that they were lager, and that they were amber in color. Beyond that, perhaps with the slight exception of hops, the beers differed.

There is no strong indication that Vienna malt in any significant amount was included in the grain bill for these historic beers in the US. And, there is no indication that it was used in Mexico at all. How can you have Vienna Lager without Vienna malt? Yeast and water profiles likely varied . Finally, adjuncts are certainly not traditional for this style.

Generally speaking, I believe the majority of these beers should not be called Vienna Lager. Amber Lager seems safer. This is reflected in the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) style guidelines, which include a category called International Amber Lager. It essentially captures most of the beer sold as Vienna Lager. Dos Equis Amber, for example, is identified as a beer that fits within this category.

Mexican Craft Breweries Today

Unlike the original lager breweries in Mexico, there are newer breweries looking to Old World brewing traditions. One of the first was a small restaurant/brewery chain called Beer Factory, which opened in late 1990s. Beer Factory makes a Vienna called Santa Fe, and they follow the Reinheitsgebot by not using “adjuntos”. Cerveza Minerva is doing the same.

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Though the increased appreciation of lager in the last few years here in the United States has leaned on the pale side, there does seem to be a growing interest in darker styles. As I noted in my last post on Vienna Lager, the 2015 BJCP style guidelines state it’s on a watch list for potential movement to the Historical category. Since 2015, and since my last post, the beer has put up a small fight here in the US, in Austria, and in Mexico. It might be sticking around a little bit longer.

1 Gauss, Susan M. & Beatty, Edward (2014). The World’s Beer: The Historical Geography of Brewing in Mexico in The Geography of Beer: Regions, Environment, and Societies, Patterson, Mark & Hoalst-Pullen, Nancy (eds).

Ice cream soda in a nonik glass being served by a soda jerk in New York City, 1936. Source: Wikipedia.

Author Martyn Cornell et. al. trace the introduction of the nonik glass in England to 1948 when Alexander Hardie Williamson designed one for Ravenhead Glass. And while many associate this glass with English ales, it was created in the United States decades earlier where it was often used to serve a growing soda market.

In addition to the increasing popularity of soda, and the soda fountains that served them, the Temperance Movement was also on the rise in the US in the early 20th century. Soda fountains could be found as a stand-alone business, but were often in department stores and pharmacies. They began to occupy some bars as well, once the Eighteenth Amendment was ratified and Prohibition began in 1920.

Hugo Pick, of Albert Pick & Company, created the nonik, receiving its first patent in 1913 (some advertisements around the time also indicate a 1912 patent). Pick & Co. was a well-established service industry company based out of Chicago. They also owned and operated a chain of hotels.

The Nonik Glassware Corporation was a licensee, and, according to the Crockery and Glass Journal, sole distributor of nonik glasses to the “jobbing trade”. They advertised widely, emphasizing a glass design that was 38-percent stronger than other glasses, and eliminated breakage and nicking by 40-percent, or 50-percent, depending on which ad you read. Another ad in House & Garden noted the nonik will “almost totally eliminate broken and chipped glassware.” Almost totally! They also created a carton to store the glassware, and a blurb in an issue of The Soda Fountain notes “we are told that breakage during the period of storage is impossible.”

All of this was due to the patented bulge, which helped protect the glass from breaking and the rim from chipping when the glass was knocked over or in storage. Improved grip was another advertised benefit.

Early 20th century ads for the Nonik in The Hotel World, The Pottery and Glass Salesman and The Soda Fountain.

Pick & Co. filed a suit against the Ferd Messmer Manufacturing Corporation when it was found that the latter was selling a glass similar to the nonik. In 1918, the court in Ferd Messmer Mfg. Co. v. Albert Pick & Co. et al., found that the Pick patent from 1914 was valid. This patent was “for an improvement in drinking glasses consisting of a shallow bulge below the rim, etc.”, and the Ferd Messmer Manufacturing Corporation had infringed upon it, according to the court.

However, the court invalidated the design patent from 1913 noting “there is nothing in the bulge of the patented glass which would appeal to the esthetic emotions or to our idea of the beautiful. While the bulge may be new and useful, we cannot say that it has added anything to decorative art.” Ouch. Essentially, they said as an ornamental design, this was not new or unique, but its creation as a means to avoid breakage was.

A great opportunity for growth arose when Pick & Co. partnered with the Libbey Glass Company. The glassware giant had its own line of products seeking to avoid nicks along the rim, which it referred to as “Safedge”.  Pick sold their 1914 patent to Libbey in 1925, and they entered into a contract where, among other things, Libbey would produce nonik glasses for Pick at a favorable price compared to other customers. This agreement would last to 1931 when the patent expired. Ads for the Nonik then appeared using the Safedge branding.

A change in ownership at Pick & Co. occurred in 1926. This may explain some changes in their business. The same year, Pick began selling a new glass called “Dur-Nok”. This glass was similar to the nonik, except the bulge was inward as opposed to out. 

On the left, an ad reflecting the partnership with Libbey and Pick. On the right, the Dur-Nok glass, created by Albert Pick Co.

The Dur-Nok caused the relationship to sour with Libbey, who decided to take Pick to court. The court in 1933 heard Libbey Glass Mfg. Co. v. Albert Pick Co. In this case, Libbey charged that with the Dur-Nok, Pick had infringed upon the 1914 patent, but the court disagreed.

Though it seems that Pick was once again victorious, there is little evidence of them selling nonik or Dur-Nok glasses in the 1930s and beyond.

An example of many variations on the nonik created for Coca-Cola. Source: fanpop.com

While the patent had expired, opening up opportunities for other manufacturers, the rise of the nonik seems to taper off in the United States after this point. Coca-cola and others have used glasses that mimic the form, but these have been an exception for US glassware. Currently, they are more of a novelty for kitschy, retro burger joints.

Further, the glassware business changed as retail and packaging changed. By mid-century it became easier to get drinks into the hands of customers in other places. Vending machines, home refrigeration, and bottles and cans rendered soda fountains obsolete and unnecessary places to have a soda. Plus, bars were (legally) back open.

Pick & Co. simply moved on, thriving for a couple more decades, but ultimately folding as they fell behind changes in the hotel industry.

The nonik moved on as well. It appears in a 1934 catalog from a German company called August Walther & Sohne AG. It does not seem to have been a big hit with the Germans, as I cannot find any other historic trace of their existence in Germany.

The nonik (on the right) as depicted in a 1934 catalog for the German glass company August Walther & Sohne AG (found online here). The glass is identified as “Wulstrandbecher”, which translates to bulb edge cup.

Things were different in England, where Cornell suggests the nonik is likely the “most ubiquitous glass”. As mentioned above, Ravenhead began producing the glass in 1948, and other manufacturers followed suit shortly after.

Unlike its origins in the United States, the nonik has been sold in England as a glass for beer. However, the noted benefits are the same as advertised by Pick & Co. Up to 2007, these had to include a crown stamp, ensuring the glass could hold the volume of liquid as indicated (half-pint, pint, quart).  

Along with the English dimple mug, the nonik is certainly not embraced by all (see Cornell’s post for further comment on the disdain for the dimple mug). Cornell calls the nonik “irredeemably ugly”. Fellow author Melissa Cole has a similar sentiment for the nonik and the dimple, "they are both unattractive - butt ugly."

Despite the fact that the craft beer movement in England is making use of better glassware for beer, similar to the shaker pint in the United States, the nonik is probably not going away anytime soon. 

Libbey continues to sell nonik glasses, some marketed for beer. The glass depicted here, holding 12.75 oz., is far from what most would call a “proper pint”.

Soda fountains, Albert Pick & Co. and Ravenshead are all gone now, but Libbey is still around, and still selling noniks. In the past, the sight of a nonik excited me because it made me think of beer styles I enjoy like mild, bitter and porter. This likely kept me from thinking much about its aesthetics or function as a vessel for beer. Perhaps I need to reconsider this, but I kinda like my noniks.

Advances in glassmaking, electricity and filtration were happening as the Pilsner beer style was created in the mid-1800s. The excitement over all these may have led to the creation of a stately glass for a beer style now seen as humble. Perhaps this is why Pilsner is served in a variety of vessels, not just the one that bears its name.

I thought about this while recently looking at my glassware, which includes several styles that are used for Pilsner. The Willi Becher glass is one that I use most often at home, and an increasing number of breweries in the US are using them as well. I decided to do a quick poll of some of Pilsner brewers to find out their recommended glassware, and to try and determine if the Pilsner glass is fading in popularity. I also threw it out on social media.

Before getting to the topic at hand, I wanted to have a deeper historical understanding of the various glass styles. Turns out there’s little information readily available on the subject, and I got a little carried away doing research. What was meant to be a brief and lighthearted post about glassware trends, has turned into a brief and incomplete history of Pilsner drinking vessels.

Precursors to the Pilsner Glass(es)

The Pilsner glassware types that we are familiar with today have historic precedent predating the creation of the beer style. One example is the passglas, dating from the late 16th century. This was a narrow and tall footed glass that slightly tapers out. The glass is discussed further at this post from Boak and Bailey.

Examples of the historic passglas from the Corning Museum of Glass.

There are a series of rings around the glass, and it’s said that it was designed as a drinking game. Read the comments in the article above for other possibilities and interesting pieces of history. The post notes evidence of the glass in Germany, Denmark, Sweden and the United States. The Corning Museum of Glass website shows several examples attributed to, without certainty in some cases, Germany, Austria, Italy and the Low Countries.

The Corning site also includes historic examples of the pokal glass, and indicates it is a “covered goblet with a flared bowl, made mostly in Germany between the 17th and 19th centuries”. The examples show variations in design, but do reflect aspects consistent with modern Pilsner glasses (see notes for further comments on the pokal.)

The Corning Museum of Glass identifies these as pokal glasses. These examples are from Germany and Czechia from the 18th century to the early 20th century.

Mugs in all different forms have existed for millennia, comprised of a variety of materials such as wood, metal and stone. These are ancestors to the versions we find today.

In German, a mug is sometimes referred to as a Krug (jug), Steinkrug (stone jug), Humpen (tankard), or Seidel (which is essentially a generic term for a mug. In Franconia, Seidla is used in reference to a half liter mug). One particular mug style developed in the 1800s is the Keferloher, a glazed clay vessel with a handle. Historically, lids (called Zinndeckel in German, and used to keep out flies and stop the spread of disease, but also other debris like ash from cigarettes) were common, but they are now less prevalent. That said, they are often still found on the ornate Steinkrug, but those are more of a souvenir for display rather than a vessel regularly used for drinking.

Left: A 0.5 Liter Keferloher. Center: Tübinger "Igel" (hedgehog). Source: Stein Marks Right: Seidel, Steinkrug or Stein. The lid on top is called a Zinndeckel. These are typically made of pewter, and can be basic in design, or highly ornate. Though most common on stoneware, they can be found on glass mugs, or at least they were historically.

Another mug is the Tübinger. These days, some identify this glass as a stout, dimpled mug, most associated with Czech lager, and holding up to 0.5 liters with room for foam, of course (more on this below). This mug evolved from an earlier form associated with an academic association, or fraternity, called the Hedgehog Academic Student Association (Akademischen Studentenverbindung Igel) at Eberhard Karls University of Tübingen in the mid to late 1800s.

Glassware for the Original Pilsner

Pilsner was created in 1842 when the Bavarian brewer Josef Groll first made it for the Bohemian brewery Pilsner Urquell (called Burghers’ Brewery at the time). While they produce a variety of drinking vessels for their beer (see below), their website indicates the Pilsner glass is most appropriate:

The long slender taper of the classic Pilsner glass maximises the amount of light that shines through the beer, showing off its golden clarity. The stem of the glass gives the drinker a place to put his or her hand without warming up the beer. The shape of the glass also concentrates the aroma at the top, much like a wine glass, making drinking Pilsner a multi-sensory experience.

It is unclear when the brewery first used a glass style specifically for this beer. The same page on their site indicates “the most famous Pilsner glass in history was the special Moser crystal chalice that brewery workers made for Emperor Franz Josef I upon his visit to the brewery in 1874.” They sell a reproduction of this goblet style glass, shown below.

Despite Urquell’s glitzy description of the Pilsner glass, the reality is that most Bohemian Pilsner served in Czechia will come in a mug of some type. Urquell recognizes this:

Occasionally you’ll still be served in a classic Pilsner glass, especially if you come to the Czech Republic, but today our tank pubs use more utilitarian mugs with sturdy handles. The stout, round shape and the angular cuts at the bottom of the mug show off the beer’s colour.

Pilsner Urquell sells an extensive array of drinking vessels for one beer. A sample is shown above, and you can find many more at their store. The glass shown on the left is a reproduction of the Moser crystal chalice made for Emperor Franz Josef I when he visited Pilsner Urquell in 1874. When a particular glass is chosen to serve this beer, you are most likely to find it in the mug on the right.

Variety of Glasses Used for Pilsner

The design of the traditional Pilsner glass varies depending on who you ask. Some say it’s a footed glass without a stem, that tapers out with little to no curve. Others will tell you it has a stem. The Oxford Companion to Beer calls this type a pokal (see footnote). Some have no stem or foot at all.

Traditional Pilsner glasses with very subtle differences. The two on the right do not have stems. The two on the left, including the middle one, depicted by the Cicerone Certification Program, are both footed. The glass on the right is manufactured by Libbey.

It seems when the term pokal is deliberately used, it is for a glass that has a short stem and is more squared off at the bottom of the bowl, which has little to no curve at all. I find these, including the examples below, to be most attractive out of all the glasses used for Pilsner.

In 1883, Bitburger (called Simonbräu at the time) was one of the first to brew Pilsner in Germany. Their glass, shown in the accompanying photo, was created in 1964. A Pilsdeckchen (aka beer rosette, Pilsrosette, beer collar, Pils collar and/or drip catcher) is around the stem. This is a circular piece of paper meant to catch beer or condensation. Bierstadt Lagerhaus in Denver serves their Pilsner with a Pilsdeckchen . Stiegl makes a classic Pilsner from Austria. Their Pilsner glass is one of the most unique you will find. Oxbow, known for their farmhouse brewing, has also received praise for their Pilsner. They even host an all-Pilsner festival, Pils and Love, on a bi-annual basis in Portland, Maine. (Images for Bitburger and Stiegl are from their websites. The Oxbow image was provided by the brewery.)

The pilstulpe (Pilsner tulip) is a type of pokal, which has subtle curves, similar to a tulip. The shape may vary slightly, including the width of the bowl. However, they rarely flare out at the top like other tulip shaped glasses.

A traditional pilstulpe from Jever.

Breweries and glass manufacturers continue to put their spin on the Pilsner glass. There are some nicely designed modern versions that are not footed, including Sahm’s Aspen Glass, used by Portland, Oregon’s Wayfinder, and Spiegelau’s Craft Pils glass used by Trumer.

Modern Pilsner glasses, including Sahm’s Aspen Glass, used by Portland, Oregon’s Wayfinder, and the Spiegelau Craft Pils glass used by Trumer. Wayfinder lists the style of each glass they sell on their website, with a little bit of information. They take their glassware seriously, and it shows.

The reality is that there are many variations from different glass manufacturers and breweries looking to design a unique glass with their branding. Generally speaking, a Pilsner glass is tall and narrow, and carries a small volume of beer (usually up to 0.4 liters). Sometimes it tapers in, sometimes out. Sometimes it has curves, sometimes not. If it is straight-sided, it typically has a stem.

Pilsner can also be found in a variety of mugs that are much more robust than the glasses noted above, and usually hold a moderate to large volume of beer (0.5 liters and up). These include the Mass (the one liter dimpled mug you will find at Oktoberfest) and the Keferloher. The previously mentioned Tübinger is favored by many serving lager, including Bohemian Pilsner (Světlý Ležák).

Notch Brewery, from Salem, Massachusetts, specializes in Czech and German lager. If you visit their brewery, you will find they make sure every beer is poured the right way, in the right glass. Their Tübinger is pictured above. Not too far away in Framingham, Massachusetts, Jack’s Abby makes an array of lager beer. This includes traditional beer and modern American, hop-forward releases, all with great execution. They like their Pilsner from a mug. Their Post-Shift Pilsner is pictured here in a half liter mug.

The modern Tübinger that many are now familiar with, was identified as a Tübinger Kugel in a 1934 catalog from a company called August Walther & Sohne AG. The catalog identifies several Tübinger glasses, in slightly different designs. Generally, they are all stout mugs with a handle.

The same catalog uses the term “Kugel” in reference to several other dimpled glasses, including the Mass. These are both depicted below. Tübinger Augenkanne (eye can) is also used to refer to dimpled glasses. This term may be more prevalent in Austria.

I have been unable to determine why the word Kugel is used, though there are a couple possibilities. Kugel can mean bullet, ball or sphere, and the dimples are spherical. It could also be said that the mugs have the appearance of being struck by bullets.

I have also been unable to determine when the Tübinger Kugel was created. As mentioned above, the Walther & Sohne catalog is from 1934. This would predate the creation of the English dimple mug by a few years, which Martyn Cornell indicates first being manufactured by Ravenhead Glass in 1938.

Tübinger Kugel as depicted in the August Walther & Sohne AG catalog from 1934, provided here online.

Kugel-Masskrug, or Maßkrug, also depicted in the August Walther & Sohne AG catalog from 1934, provided here online. The use of the Mass in glass form at Oktoberfest began in 1892, though you’re not likely to find one there filled with Pilsner. Traditionally, the amber lager Märzen was served. These days, Festbier (Oktoberbestbier), a paler lager, is the standard.

Though some note the ability to see your beer as a determining factor for the switch, glass became favored because it was cheaper, cleaner and more durable than other materials. That doesn’t mean that it’s preferred by all. Many locals still drink out of the Keferloher.

The Willi Becher glass was designed by Willy Steinmeier in 1954. Steinmeier worked for a company called Ruhr Glas in Essen, Germany, and the glass was named after him (the translation of becher is cup.)

I’m ashamed to admit that I don’t own a Tübinger. However, the folks at Notch Brewing think the Willi Becher is a good substitute for it when drinking Světlý Ležák, like the one pictured here from Únětický pivovar in my glass from Subversive Malting and Brewing.

The basic design is certainly not unprecedented (in fact, the Walther & Sohne catalog depicts a glass very similar in shape (see footnote), two decades prior to Mr. Steinmeier’s creation), but does reflect themes of that era in post-war Germany. It has a somewhat modern, streamlined appearance that is simple and utilitarian. It’s also versatile, working just fine with an array of beer styles. As it rises, the glass flares out gently to about two-thirds of the way up, where it then curves back in. This promotes good head and aroma. It also makes it comfortable to handle and easy to store.

Vase shapes, typically associated with Weizen beers, are not common for Pilsner. However, I do have a Staropramen glass in that style, and I’ve seen many others serve it in a similar form.

Thoughts on these Styles

I don’t have strong feelings about the styles discussed above, and I wouldn’t complain drinking a Pilsner out of any of them. That said, there are pros and cons to each.

The varying glasses that are usually identified as “Pilsner” are fine, and often quite attractive. But in practice, I prefer a glass that holds more volume. About half a liter feels right for me. Plus, sometimes those glasses feel like you’re putting on dress or tuxedo to go hang out in your friend’s backyard.

Aside from Bohemian Pilsner, I typically don’t like Pilsner in a mug. Using one can be fun, but the beer is too delicate to be in such a robust vessel.

The Sahm glass used by Wayfinder is great, I don’t have many reasons not to use it, except it’s not as ubiquitous as others. Same goes for the Spiegelau glass used by Trumer.

The vase seems inappropriate, in part because it is so closely associated with Weizen beer. While I’m not one to avoid something simply because it’s inconsistent with tradition, the space allocated for the typically robust head on a Weizen beer, is too large for a Pilsner.

The Willi Becher may be a little dull and utilitarian in appearance, but at the end of the day, this is the glass I will continue to use most often for Pilsner. It’s a humble glass for a humble beer.

Survey Results

And what about that survey? The pool was way too small to say anything definitively. Out of forty breweries I contacted, eleven responded. If you tried to identify any themes by combining those results with responses received on Twitter and Instagram polls, there were no clear takeaways. What this suggests is that glassware chosen for Pilsner is very much an individual choice, and this doesn’t appear to be changing anytime soon.

Final Thought

While I use the Willi Becher most often, I love all my glasses, and I’m not getting rid of them anytime soon. In fact, working on this post has made me realize I need to add a few to my collection.

Thank you to the breweries that took a moment out of their busy schedules, during this stressful time, to fill out a survey for a blog.

Notes

A Bockbecher glass as depicted in the Walter and Sohne catalog,

Pokal - There’s a slight inconsistency in the use of the word pokal in the beer world. The Oxford Companion to Beer notes “in Germany, a stemmed pilsner glass is also known as a pokal”. Mosher, on the other hand, depicts a somewhat different style glass that is used for Bock beer in his book, Tasting Beer: An Insider’s Guide to the World’s Greatest Drink. This may be based on the fact that Ayinger, brewers of the classic Doppelbock called Celebrator, use a glass matching the shape shown by Mosher. (He also describes an updated pokal, with an inward taper, which he identifies as more of an all-purpose glass.) Despite pokal being used more frequently for Pilsner, Mosher’s application has greater consistency with the definition of pokal, which means goblet.

I’ve had a difficult time finding other reputable sources outside of Mosher that identify the glass used for Bock beer as a pokal. For what it’s worth, the August Walther & Sohne catalog from 1934 includes this glass shape and identifies it as a “Bockbecher”, or Bock cup. I haven’t found other sources using that name either.

Folkbier Brauerei’s Pilsner served in a 0.25 liter Willi Becher from Suarez Family Brewery.

Willi Becher - Like most styles discussed here, the Willi Becher glass is sold in varying sizes. A smaller sized glass without a stem or handle makes sense in terms of temperature for those that slowly savor their beer, or will be refilling often.

I have two of these glasses. One is a 0.25-liter glass from Suarez Family Brewery. The other is approximately a 0.5-liter glass from Subversive Malting and Brewing. Suarez uses this glass in their tasting room for most of their lagers and ales. I think it is perfect in that setting.

When I purchased the Subversive glass, I had asked for a smaller size, but they were out. In hindsight, I am grateful I got the larger one. It holds the ideal volume for me while drinking at home. I’m not alone. In his Best in 2019 list, Craft Beer and Brewing Managing Editor Joe Stange put large Willi Becher glasses in a category of “Favorite Thing that Ought to Be a Trend”. Similarly, millennial friendly food magazine Bon Appétit recently noted this as a glass “you’ll see everywhere” in an article titled “Beer and Wine Only: America’s 10 Best (and friendliest) Places to Grab a Drink”.

As mentioned above, the Willi Becher did not break ground with its shape. An example of one glass that pre-dated the Willi Becher is the Sigfried, depicted in the Walther & Sohne catalog. A modern version of this, sold by Ritzenhoff, has more of a vase shape.

A Siegfried glass as depicted in the Walter and Sohne catalog, and a modern version sold by Ritzenhoff.

Historic Resources

As noted above, there is not a great amount of literature on beer vessel history. That said, the Corning Museum of Glass is a tremendous resource. Browsing their website provides a wealth of examples of historic glassware. Further, the August Walther & Söhne AG catalog from 1934 was very interesting.

This Zythophile blog post by Martyn Cornell is an informative piece for glassware in England.

The website Stein Marks is also a great resource.